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Category: Current events

611. the gift shop… that never was

Recoleta Cemetery is not, as one might imagine, a static or immutable place. On the contrary, it is a living site that has undergone changes over the years —some of which have even occurred since this blog went online. In this regard, the most recent controversy involving change in the cemetery arose from a Gobierno de la Ciudad Autónoma de Buenos Aires (the official name for the city government, abbreviated as GCBA) plan —pursued via a public tender— to install a gift shop inside the grounds where visitors could buy souvenirs, book night tours, and purchase food & drinks. This sparked a major debate. The family that owned the mausoleum stepped forward, and following a heated dispute, the city administration was forced to halt the entire process.

Everything began in early August. On the 7th, the GCBA announced its intention to place in public tender the mausoleum identified as “Section 17 – Plot 201 – Graves 1 to 12” for the purpose of “providing comprehensive visitor services, including the operation of a gift shop, a food and/or beverage outlet, and a night tour service.”

To give our readers some context, Section 17 is located at the southwestern end of the cemetery, at the corner of Junín and Vicente López streets. The mausoleum in question sits next to a small exit built in recent years along Junín Street. In fact, the idea was for visitors to purchase these items before leaving the premises, thereby preventing them from consuming food or drink inside the cemetery itself.

Details

In short, Public Tender 10002-1251-LPU26 sought to award a five-year concession for this space located within the cemetery, with a base monthly fee of 1,600,000 pesos (approximately 1,050 USD at the current exchange rate). Additionally, the concessionaire would be required to remit at least 20% of gross revenue generated by night-time tourism activities to the Buenos Aires city government; the final figure was subject to the bidders’ proposals. The opening of bids was scheduled for September 9 via the Buenos Aires Compras portal.

The tender specifications provided further details: the establishment could offer institutional products & souvenirs linked to the history and heritage of the city and the cemetery, as well as simple food and beverages —either packaged or for immediate service, such as coffee and tea— sold exclusively on a take-away basis. In other words, there was no provision for table service, customers remaining inside the premises, or the use of reusable tableware.

Meanwhile, the night-time tourism service was to consist of guided tours & cultural, educational, and recreational activities designed to showcase the necropolis’s historical, artistic, architectural & funerary heritage. Activities were planned for Thursdays through Sundays between 19:00 and 23:00. Naturally, the establishment could remain open during those hours for product sales.

Controversy

Controversy erupted as soon as the tender was announced. Heritage preservation groups associated with the cemetery —most notably the Association of Friends of Recoleta Cemetery (Asociación de Amigos del Cementerio de la Recoleta, ADACRE)— raised a loud outcry.

To begin with, Article 22 of the city’s cemetery law (No. 4977) stipulates:

“All commercial activity, in any form, is prohibited —specifically the sale of vaults, mausoleums, niches, and funeral goods or services— within the grounds of cemeteries owned by the Government of the Autonomous City of Buenos Aires.”

Shortly thereafter, ADACRE issued a detailed statement on the matter. They expressed support for designating the space as a “Cultural Information and Outreach Center” but deemed the dining operations outlined in the tender specifications as “inappropriate.”

Nevertheless, they emphasized that “the coexistence of a heritage cemetery and a dining service is not technically impossible anywhere in the world. In every instance, it is a matter of institutional judgment made by those responsible for the site’s preservation.” Finally, they called for a “joint analysis to determine the most suitable approach” —one that would “safeguard the space’s cultural purpose, secure genuine funding for the cemetery’s restoration, and avoid the institutional strain that neither party desires.”

In the British Cemetery

Amidst this ongoing debate, AfterLife contacted the Cementerio Británico of Buenos Aires —one of the two “dissident cemeteries” adjacent to Chacarita Cemetery. The British Cemetery operates a service selling drinks, cookies and alfajores via vending machines located in a space next to the entrance; we wanted to understand how this system works, given the controversy surrounding the situation in Recoleta. Cemetery administrators told us: “First of all, a distinction must be made: Recoleta Cemetery is public, whereas our institution is private. Under our bylaws, we are permitted to engage in any activity —not just burials, but anything related to the proper management of the burial grounds.”

They added that the area where drinks and snacks are sold “wasn’t set up in a burial vault, but rather where the restrooms used to be. We haven’t had any issues, but it is a different situation because our operating permit allows for it. In the case of Recoleta, the vault doesn’t belong to the cemetery itself but to a family —unless, after a certain number of years, it reverts to the cemetery’s ownership, given that it is a public facility.” They concluded: “Any private cemetery has a reception area, an office, vending machines, and a coffee station.”

Public space or private vault?

The tender process obviously clashed with the legal framework of the Autonomous City of Buenos Aires… So how should this to be interpreted?

The provision calling for the establishment of this business refers to “a space located within the property known as Recoleta Cemetery” —meaning it does not use the word “vault.” Furthermore, it notes that the space would be a “public asset” belonging to the city. Jorge Macri’s administration stated —as reported by the newspaper Clarín— that the vault in question had been abandoned: “After the administrative procedure established by law was completed, it was returned to the city government.”

They explained that “some of the individuals who filed claims are not the vault’s titleholders; therefore, we believe the formal legal notice will have no effect. In the case of the Girado family, there are 30 titleholders, yet none of them has paid a single peso for the vault’s concession over the last 20 years. Specifically, the outstanding debt for the 2007–2026 period amounts to $22,215,070 [pesos].” That’s over 14,500 USD at present.

“Public notices have been published since 2025, formal legal notices were sent, and they also owe money for repairs to the vault —a total of $15,587,653,” they asserted.

Family pressure

But the Girado family, owner of the aforementioned “space,” counterattacked. “The tender was called while our deceased, our family, are still in the vault,” said lawyer Pablo Girado Passo. He said that it is a perpetual concession & that the vault was built in 1880. “We request the annulment of everything that has been done. Because the law also establishes that to recover ownership, the government has to reliably notify heirs. However, the notifications reached addresses where no heir lived,” he explained.

Specifically, Lucía Girado, the sister of the aforementioned lawyer, presented the file “Girado Lucía v. GCBA s/ amparo”, No. 193444/2026-0, before the Buenos Aires Contentious Administrative and Tax jurisdiction. Judge Roberto Gallardo acted there, ordering the vault to be opened and inspected on August 20, with the presence of Lucía, her lawyers, representatives of the Attorney General’s Office and cemetery authorities. After that inspection, on August 21, Gallardo decided to close the vault. During the visit, photographic and film records of the interior were made.

Finally the judge ordered the GCBA “to refrain from issuing the expiration of the concession of the land formed by graves 1 to 12 and the rest of No. 201, Section 17 of the Recoleta Cemetery, as well as from arranging for its eventual bidding or public auction.”

Thus, on August 26, the Buenos Aires Government published in its official bulletin a provision that “repeals the single-stage Public Tender No. 10002-1251-LPU26 for the granting of the concession for use and exploitation on an onerous basis of a Space located inside the property called Cementerio de la Recoleta, located at Junín No. 1760 of the Autonomous City of Buenos Aires.”

It all ended there. Although the judge, according to media in the Argentine capital, suggested that the Buenos Aires city government had initiated a second step, aimed at lucrative commercial exploitation in a place that could be outside the cemetery.

Although this first project ended in favor of the Girado family, we’ll have to wait & see if some type of kiosk is built outside cemetery grounds to provide visitors with basic services. The regular exit to Recoleta Cemetery should be back to normal now!

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610. exit redirection

Due to the ongoing polemic of possibly using an abandoned mausoleum for commercial purposes, a new exit has been put into temporary use. Guards prohibit photography, so thanks to Marcelo for obtaining these clandestine images 😉

And yes, we’re preparing a post about the café/gift shop idea… just waiting for the dust to settle & gather a variety of opinions. Thanks for your patience.

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594. birthday bash

Buenos Aires, Argentina, Recoleta Cemetery

Happy 200th birthday! Marcelo was unable to attend, but a series of activities throughout November commemorated the bicentennial of Recoleta Cemetery. Announced by the official website of the Buenos Aires city government, here’s their schedule of events:

  • Official commemorative act, November 17

  • Dramatization, November 19 at 18:00
    Directed by Hugo Aquino, the Clepsidra theater group will surprise as usual in its performances at various historical sites. This tour & its actors pull together 200 years of Argentine history from a religious, architectural, political & cultural perspective.

  • Symphony orchestra, November 24 at 18:00
    The Argentine Naval Prefecture symphony orchestra brings together 40 members to perform a repertoire that will include the Argentina national anthem as well as works by Brahms, Strauss & Dvorak.

  • Chamber vocal ensemble, November 26 at 18:00
    Created in 1970, the Chamber Vocal Ensemble —managed by the Undersecretary of Culture from the Municipality of Quilmes— is composed of music professionals who join the group through a rigorous competition. The choir is composed of 5 sopranos, 4 altos, 3 tenors & 5 bass singers that achieve a beautiful harmony. They have performed in emblematic places such as the Teatro Colon, the Teatro Cervantes & the Auditorio Belgrano among others.

  • Guided visit, November 30 at 21:00
    Commemorating the bicentennial of the cemetery, Mr. Eduardo Lazzari will accompany us in a nighttime tour without precedent. The route will include places of interest that bring together legends & stories that have been gathered throughout history.
Buenos Aires, Argentina, Recoleta Cemetery, Domingo Faustino Sarmiento

In addition, the article lists ten must-see places to visit inside Recoleta Cemetery. We’ve written about these specific tombs or general areas, so each link below will take you directly to that post:

  1. Peristyle & monumental entrance
  2. Pantheon of Meritorious Citizens – Section once dedicated to Argentina’s forefathers, but most remains have since been moved to other locations. One later addition was Dr. Guillermo Rawson.
  3. Central statue of Christ
  4. Walkway parallel to Calle Azcuénaga – Long path with large mausoleums such as Adolfo Alsina, Toribio de Ayerza & Luis Ángel Firpo.
  5. Sculptures parallel to Calle Vicente López – Shorter walkway filled with grand statues like on the tombs of Juan Alberto Lartigau & Luis María Campos.
  6. María Eva Duarte de Perón mausoleum
  7. Leloir family mausoleum
  8. Domingo Faustino Sarmiento tomb
  9. Legend of Rufina Cambacérès
  10. Chapel
Buenos Aires, Argentina, Recoleta Cemetery

Other press releases in local newspapers generally copied the official article linked above; however, one editorial piece in La Prensa caught my attention. Written by Roberto L. Elissalde, the article mentions some of the impressions that foreign visitors had while visiting Recoleta Cemetery as well as highlights the role of the cemetery’s first historian, Ricardo de Lafuente Machain. Worth a look if you can read Spanish.


If anyone has photos of the events mentioned above & would like to share, I’d be happy to post them here… & of course give proper credit!

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593. special anniversaries

Buenos Aires, Argentina, Recoleta Cemetery, Bartolomé Miter, funeral, velatorio,

Time to celebrate!! Recoleta Cemetery has been in operation for 200 years as of today! I’d hoped to make it back to Buenos Aires for such a special event, but Rafa & I are currently in Iowa visiting my aunt… family duty for the living calls 🙂

But I’m definitely there in spirit. How could I not be? By investigating the cemetery’s past, I’ve learned so much about Argentina. And instead of death, what fascinates me most are the lifetimes of those who rest in peace in Recoleta Cemetery. How families choose to be remembered as well as lessons they leave for the future are vital to understanding Argentina… both past & present.

Marcelo received the following invitation & plans to attend, so we’ll share his observations & photos too.

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This month also holds another special anniversary: 15 years of blogging about Recoleta Cemetery! With all the twists & turns of life, I can’t believe I’ve been able to publish new content regularly… even after moving away from Argentina in 2015. If you look back to the beginning, the first post dates from 03 Oct 2007 —but I backposted in order to have more to read on launch in November. Sneaky.

This simple layout stayed for so many years to make it more accessible to everyone.

Although I’ve yet to publish all my photos of Recoleta Cemetery nor shared all its stories, these joint anniversaries are the perfect moment to pause & take a break. I won’t be posting new content monthly, but AfterLife will remain online… hopefully forever! It’s too valuable as an English-language resource to remove from the internet.

I will continue to update the Recoleta Cemetery map & guide as often as necessary; the PDF will always remain current. And if an important event happens, of course I’ll cover it here. I may even write a few new entries from time to time. But other projects require my attention at the moment, so AfterLife will remain on hold until further notice.

I’ve had lots of fun showing thousands of people around one of the most beautiful & intriguing cemeteries in the world —full of so much more than invented ghost stories or questionable interpretations of symbolism. And appearing on the GlobeTrekker television program was a definite highlight of this whole crazy project.

Support from families with mausoleums in Recoleta Cemetery has been for the most part positive & very much appreciated. I’d also like to thank Marcelo Metayer for his invaluable assistance with writing, photography & overall support. Couldn’t have done this mega-project without you, Mar! Finally, a big thank-you to all the loyal readers over the years + everyone who has purchased our map & guide. ¡Gracias a todos!

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586. entrance fee established

Buenos Aires, Recoleta Cemetery, entrance fee, sign
Photo posted by Mariano Fraga on Twitter.

In 2015, we wrote about a possible entrance fee being established for Recoleta Cemetery. The idea was shelved, then COVID hit in 2020 & the cemetery closed to tourists for almost two years. But as of April 4th —with very little advance notice— the Buenos Aires city government will charge foreigners 1400 pesos (at this time almost 13 USD) to visit what is still declared by Law 4977 as a public space.

A Clarín article from 30 Mar 2022 by Karina Niebla states that income generated will be used for maintaining all cemeteries in Buenos Aires (for example: renovating the pantheon in Flores, restoring niches in Chacarita & reinforcing security in Recoleta). Let’s hope so. Still, we can’t help but wonder why is the entrance fee so expensive or why a public space is being privatized.

Buenos Aires, Recoleta Cemetery, entrance fee

Another problem the city government failed to address is that tour operators that have already sold packages including a cemetery visit must absorb this extra cost until the fee can be incorporated into future services. This argument halted implementation of an entrance fee in 2015 & still remains valid. With no grace period or temporary exemption, tour companies must take yet another cut in income after two years of almost no clients at all. We’ll have to wait & see how the situation unfolds.

Residents of Argentina can enter for free, except if they visit on a guided tour… then they must pay 700 pesos (currently a bit over 6 USD). Guides are exempt from the entrance fee, but at some point all cemetery guides will have to participate in a training course given at the cemetery. We’re all for that!

The online ticketing system seems straightforward enough, but authorities have cut two hours from visiting time. Recoleta Cemetery opens at 07:00, but visitors cannot enter until 09:00. Sneaky & a shame since those early hours have incredible light from the sunrise. Clicking through various screens generates an electronic ticket as shown below:

Buenos Aires, Recoleta Cemetery, entrance fee
Buenos Aires, Recoleta Cemetery, entrance fee
Buenos Aires, Recoleta Cemetery, entrance fee

Tickets are only available online. Our Recoleta Cemetery PDF guidebook will be updated soon with this new information & links to pre-purchase tickets.


Update (01 Oct 2023): As of today, the official price of a ticket to Recoleta Cemetery has “increased” to 3768 pesos from its original value listed above. While the amount in local currency has gone up, in terms of USD the price has actually decreased since tickets were first established due to Argentina’s rampant inflation. With the current official exchange rate at 365,50 pesos per USD, the ticket price now sits at $10.31. Expect this value to continue to vary until inflation is brought under control… probably not any time in the foreseeable future.


Update (Jan 2024): That last price increase did not last long! But the newest price hike to 5090 pesos isn’t surprising given recent elections & even more inflation. With the current official exchange rate at 819 pesos per USD, the ticket price is now about $6.20. We’ll try to stay on top of this rollercoaster.


Update (Dec 2024): Time to stop this ride 😉 There’s no way we can keep up with all the price increases, so this will be the last update for the post. The sidebar will always display the entrance fee which currently costs 16,100 pesos or almost $16 USD. Seems a bit expensive, pero es lo que hay.

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