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114. familia roverano ◊

Familia Roverano, Recoleta Cemetery

Even though he’s missing an arm, this statue of an Italian immigrant is unique to Recoleta Cemetery. He represents one of the newly arrived in Argentina, stepping off a boat onto dry land. Typical peasant garb of a scarf, pants, & boots make his Italian origins obvious. The short phrase written on the boat provides one final clue: “Ayudate” (Help yourself). It’s a wonderful representation of an immigrant who makes a fresh start in a new country.

The Roveranos came from the region of Genoa, Italy & amassed a small fortune as owners of the now-demolished Confitería del Gas. This famous café in downtown Buenos Aires served customers in the original location of the Café Tortoni. When the Tortoni moved to where it is today, the Roverano family set up their own competing café. In 1882, theirs had the distinction of being the first business in Buenos Aires fitted with electric lamps. Very hi-tech for the time.

Familia Roverano, Confitería del Gas, Buenos Aires

The Roveranos also bought property close to the main square & opened a commercial passageway named after them. Their café may not be around these days, but entering the Pasaje Roverano (directly behind the Cabildo) is like going back to the early 20th-century with an old-time barbershop, beautiful stained glass, & nicely preserved woodwork:

Pasaje Roverano, Recoleta Cemetery

Pasaje Roverano, Recoleta Cemetery

Pasaje Roverano, Recoleta Cemetery

The Roveranos decided to change cemeteries in 1919 so this has been vacant for several decades, yet the ideal that brought them to Argentina remains intact. Supposedly they spent over one million pesos to build the new family vault in Chacarita Cemetery:

Familia Roverano, Cementerio de la Chacarita

Update (08 Feb 2012): Much of the Colección Witcomb has been made available online, including photo #369 which shows our favorite Italian immigrant with his arm intact:

Recoleta Cemetery, Buenos Aires, Roverano, Colección Witcomb

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112. comodoro luis py

Comodoro Luis Py, Recoleta Cemetery

An important naval officer during the formative years of Argentine history, Luis Py was born in Barcelona in 1819. He joined the Argentine Navy at the age of 24 & served under Admiral Guillermo Brown while defending Montevideo from the British-French blockade. During the difficult times of the Confederación Argentina (basically BsAs vs. the rest of the nation in the 1850s), Py earned the rank of Captain for his defense of Buenos Aires.

The most difficult moment for Py was during the 1860s war with Paraguay when the vessel he commanded was heavily damaged & his son—also enlisted in the Navy & on board—was killed. Py continued to rise in the ranks & was sent by President Sarmiento to defend Argentina’s claim to Patagonia.

At the same time Roca began the Desert Conquest campaign, Py took a small fleet to Santa Cruz discovering an easily overtaken Chilean outpost. Remaining there for several months, Py’s presence effectively warned Chile to stay away. Returning to Buenos Aires, he was promoted to Commodore at the age of 60 & passed away 5 years later in 1884. Py should have received a special mention for his handlebar moustache:

Comodoro Luis Py, Recoleta Cemetery

The large number of naval symbols leaves no doubt as to his calling in life:

Comodoro Luis Py, Recoleta Cemetery

And an eye-level plaque reminds us that this vault was sponsored by friends & fellow naval personnel:

Comodoro Luis Py, Recoleta Cemetery

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110. map development 3

By mid-2004 it seemed practical to convert my website about Argentina into a blog. Spending a lot of time in Europe for work didn’t help me develop projects about Buenos Aires, but I thought Recoleta Cemetery was too important & too interesting to leave neglected.

The biggest hurdle was having to learn to use yet another program. After teaching myself HTML, Javascript, Flash, Photoshop, & CSS, the last thing I wanted to do was learn how to use Adobe Illustrator. But it had to be done. I took a photo of the Nov 2003 map at the entrance gate, imported it to Illustrator & began to trace the general layout of the cemetery… a good way to learn to use the program.

Once the rough master copy was complete, I began going to the cemetery almost daily to compare & correct. It was much more work than I expected. As I counted the number of actual vaults vs. those on the map, the difference was enormous. What to do? The easiest approach seemed to be to divide the cemetery into sectors & walk every aisle, counting the number of vaults as I went. Each day I’d input changes so I wouldn’t forget what I’d seen. It made for some interesting posts on my blog, & mapping took several months to finish.

Some of the stages are below with the original traced map in orange & the corrected version in blue:

Map development, Recoleta Cemetery

Read the complete story in the following posts titled “map development”: Part 1, Part 2, Part 4, Part 5, Part 6 & Part 7. Good news! The PDF guidebook is now available.

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