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Author: Robert

470. vergottini plaque

Published by Robert on 3 June 2012

Recoleta Cemetery, Buenos Aires, Julio Vergottini plaque

While sculptor Julio César Vergottini has several important works in Chacarita —like statues of tango legend Celedonio Flores & of poetess Alfonsina Storni— his works are rare in Recoleta Cemetery.

One possible reason Vergottini is not so present in Recoleta could be that his typical clients were not the upper-class families who had works of art commissioned in Europe. This plaque decorates the Durañona family vault, but they seem like the typical Recoleta Cemetery family. Hailing from San Antonio de Areco, Francisco Durañona y Vedia is currently the head of the National Insurance Board… appointed by CFK herself. Perhaps the family just liked Vergottini’s work.

Vergottini lived in a mini-castle on the banks of the contaminated Riachuelo River in the barrio of Barracas, & most of his public works are in the same area. Two relief panels decorate the colorful, ultra-touristy Caminito in La Boca. Vergottini won first prize to build a monument incorporating the national flag. His work, titled “Monumento al Izamiento de la Bandera” or “Monument to Hoisting the Flag” was unveiled in Plaza Colombia in Barracas in 1940. But don’t bother to look for his statues now. When the city government refit Plaza Colombia in 2010, they removed them from the base of the flagpole. Supposedly they are being kept in a warehouse until money is available for their restoration… let’s hope they reappear sometime soon!

Buenos Aires, Barracas, Vergottini house, Riachuelo

Buenos Aires, La Boca, Caminito, La Sirga, Vergottini

Update (22 Jun 2012): The Vergottini statues have been found! And of course they are in a deplorable state. Someone recently took a photo of the statues discarded in a Department of Monuments & Artworks parking lot in Parque 3 de Febrero (Palermo). More info here in Spanish..sep. such an embarrassment for the city government:

Buenos Aires, Vergottini, Plaza Colombia sculptures

Update (Sep 2019): The statues have returned to Plaza Colombia almost nine years after being removed. At last!

Last photo courtesy of Proteger Barracas.

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469. manuel josé garcía-mansilla

Published by Robert on 27 May 2012

Recoleta Cemetery, Buenos Aires, José María García-Mansilla

Tucked into the crowded, central section of the cemetery, the tomb of Rear Admiral Manuel José García-Mansilla is difficult to find… in spite of the impressive statue & many plaques.

Born in Buenos Aires in 1859, Manuel José seemed destined for greatness from birth. His mother, Eduarda, was one of the first women writers in Argentina & sister of Lucio Victorio Mansilla. His father was an original member of the Foreign Service who took Manuel José to the United States at a very young age, later finishing his education in France.

Recoleta Cemetery, Buenos Aires, José María García-Mansilla

García-Mansilla showed an early aptitude for all things naval, likely influenced by his father’s work in purchasing vessels for the Argentine Navy. He decided to remain in France for military training—common in those days since Argentina had yet to found its own naval academy. While in the Red Sea, García-Mansilla heard a “man overboard!!” cry & immediately dived into the water to the rescue. Decorated as a Chevalier in the Legion of Honor for his actions, he wrote a letter to his mother regretting the fact that her gift—a watch—had been ruined in the rescue attempt. But in return, he saved a life & earned the respect of the French.

As he ascended in the military, García-Mansilla helped modernize the Argentine fleet. He became an expert in torpedoes & coastal defense, even making adjustments to British designs. He also drew on his vast experience to standardize the Navy… implementing much needed regulations & adopting a common uniform.

Recoleta Cemetery, Buenos Aires, José María García-Mansilla

Later in life, García-Mansilla became one of the most pretigious directors of Argentina’s own Naval Academy. But his most visible legacy in Buenos Aires was founding the Centro Naval in 1882. Elected as its first president, García-Mansilla believed that the camaraderie formed by social ties in the Navy were fundamental to its success as an institution.

Recoleta Cemetery, Buenos Aires, José María García-Mansilla

The Centro Naval changed location several times before finding its permanent home at the intersection of Avenida Córdoba & Florida in 1914. French architect Gastón Mallet designed a fantastic ballroom, dining facilities & a library for research & investigation. If you aren’t one of the 11,000 members (!) with access to the facilities, be sure to take a guided tour:

Centro Naval, Buenos Aires

Centro Naval, Buenos Aires

Centro Naval, Buenos Aires

After participating in the May 1910 centennial festivities, García-Mansilla passed away on August 18th. As a tribute, the Naval Academy performs a service in Recoleta Cemetery every year on the anniversary of his death… I’ll try to get photos to post here in a couple months. And since 1946, family descendants give the cadet with the most exemplary record a watch in commemoration of García-Mansilla’s dedication.

Complete biography can be found here (in Spanish). The statue is signed J. Lovatalli, Roma 1913 but no data about the sculptor could be found online. Any info would be appreciated!

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467. cementerio británico

Published by Robert on 6 May 2012

Cementerio Británico, Buenos Aires

The Cementerio Británico opened in 1892 after the Cementerio Victoria filled to capacity & local residents requested its relocation. The cemetery’s current look dates from the 1930s & 1940s, designed by the architecture firm of Conder, Follett & Farmer… probably best known for the main train station in Retiro. The British fondness for brick is visible at the modern entrance gate, certainly the least decorative in Buenos Aires. The chapel also follows the same lines:

Cementerio Británico, Buenos Aires

In general, the cemetery has a decent amount of greenery, quite a few trees & is well-maintained. Most graves are decorated with simple tombstones, but large crosses & obelisks are common as well:

Cementerio Británico, Buenos Aires

Military memorials are found along the wall to left of the entrance gate, just behind the chapel. John Thorne, an American naval officer who fought for Argentina during its early days, is buried there along with several fallen from both World Wars:

Cementerio Británico, Buenos Aires

As the major non-Catholic cemetery for several decades, many Armenians are buried here as well as immigrants from other nations. Members of the Jewish community have also been buried in this cemetery:

Cementerio Británico, Buenos Aires

Unique to Buenos Aires is the Familia Gorkin plot… unsure why they chose the Asian theme:

Cementerio Británico, Buenos Aires

Not surprisingly, important religious figures from the non-Catholic community are buried here. Two of the more elaborate graves belong to Reverend James William Fleming of St. Andrews Scots Presbyterian Church & Willam Patterson McLaughlin, pastor of the First Methodist Episcopal Church from 1892 to 1921. McLaughlin’s relief is similar in iconography to that of Atilio Massone but signed by Chambers y Thomas… best known for the fabulous First National Bank of Boston building on Diagonal Norte:

Cementerio Británico, Buenos Aires

Cementerio Británico, Buenos Aires

Of historical interest are the many monuments & tombstones brought from the Cementerio Victoria before it became a public park in 1925. Tombstones are affixed in rows along the rear wall (right of the entrance). Several contain references to early railroad companies of Buenos Aires, a good number have Hebrew inscriptions & some are very solemn:

Cementerio Británico, Buenos Aires

Cementerio Británico, Buenos Aires

Cementerio Británico, Buenos Aires

Cementerio Británico, Buenos Aires

And while there may not be as many sculptures as in Recoleta Cemetery, the few present are wonderful works of art:

Cementerio Británico, Buenos Aires

Cementerio Británico, Buenos Aires

Cementerio Británico, Buenos Aires

This is one of the most peaceful cemeteries in Buenos Aires & is definitely worth an early morning stroll. Although sharing the same gigantic plot of land as Chacarita Cemetery, walls separate the Cementerio Británico from Chacarita. The only entrance is along Avenida El Cano, near the intersection of Avenida del Campo.

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Other Buenos Aires cemeteries: Cementerio del Sur • Chacarita • San José de Flores • Cementerio de los Disidentes • Cementerio Británico • Cementerio Alemán

Spanish speakers can find out many more details about the Cementerio Británico on Eduardo Kesting’s thoroughly researched website.

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466. josé hernández

Published by Robert on 29 April 2012

Recoleta Cemetery, Buenos Aires, José Hernández

In 1834, José Rafael Hernández y Pueyrredón was born in the Province of Buenos Aires. His parents & relatives had property near Buenos Aires, so he spent most of his childhood in the big city. At the age of 9, his mother passed away. Diagnosed with respiratory problems, doctors recommended a change of climate for Hernández. He went to live with his father who ran ranches for Juan Manuel de Rosas… a great opportunity to learn the gaucho lifestyle.

Hernández began a military career in the 1850s. On & off, he participated in many of the decisive battles to determine if Buenos Aires would become the capital of Argentina. But a career in journalism lured Hernández away from the military. Already an established member of the literary community, his greatest work began to be published in 1872 as a newspaper series under the title “Martín Fierro.”

Recoleta Cemetery, Buenos Aires, José Hernández

Combining gaucho folklore & romantic imagery, Martín Fierro became immediately popular for its authentic tone, first-person narrative & innovative use of language. The work became a fundamental piece of Argentine identity & by the time of its 11th edition in 1879, Hernández penned a popular sequel titled “La Vuelta de Martín Fierro.”

José Hernández passed away in 1886. Martín Fierro has been adapted in many formats since then, & many Argentines continue to identify with this classic piece of literature. Both texts can be found here, & it is often presented in comic format for a younger audience:

José Hernández, Martín Fierro

Despite his contribution to national identity, the tomb of José Hernández is rarely visited these days. It was made a National Historic Monument in 1946, & the following plaque was placed in 1964 on the 130th anniversary of his birth:

Recoleta Cemetery, Buenos Aires, José Hernández

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