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Author: Robert

045. name missing ◊

The family name may have been removed long ago on this vault, but it remains one of the most stunning pieces of architecture in Recoleta Cemetery. Several sources attribute it to the DeFerrari family, but marks left by previous letters on the façade are too difficult to read for confirmation of the original owners.

Art Deco was all the rage during the 1920s & 1930s—the shapes & massive statue size pin it to that era. Also, the crucifixion mosaic has definite Byzantine inspiration. Flat, 2-D figures incorporated well into Art Deco & Neo-Byzantine became one of Art Deco’s many offshoots:

Art Deco, Alejandro Virasoro, Neo-Byzantine vault, Recoleta Cemetery

Art Deco, Alejandro Virasoro, Neo-Byzantine vault, Recoleta Cemetery

Art Deco, Alejandro Virasoro, Neo-Byzantine vault, Recoleta Cemetery

Art Deco, Alejandro Virasoro, Neo-Byzantine vault, Recoleta Cemetery

Another example of this interesting Art Deco/Neo-Byzantine style is a church built by one of the most prolific & influential architects in Buenos Aires, Alejandro Christophersen. The Santuario Nacional de Santa Rosa de Lima (at Avenida Belgrano & Pasco) was built from 1928 to 1934 & has similar mosaics inside along with a unique exterior for BsAs. For more photos of this building, read about it here:Santa Rosa de Lima, Alejandro Christophersen, Buenos Aires

Santa Rosa de Lima, Alejandro Christophersen, Buenos Aires

Santa Rosa de Lima, Alejandro Christophersen, Buenos Aires

Update, Nov 2008: Art Deco architect Alejandro Virasoro designed the vault, & the original owners were the Defferrari family. See post #259 for more details.

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044. lappas

Naturally, one of the top silversmith families in Argentina has their family tomb in Recoleta Cemetery. They’ve dealt primarily in housewares (jars, vases, cutlery & the like) since 1887, but the font used for the business name is distinctly Art Deco:

Plata Lappas logo

Their largest store is on Avenida Santa Fe with a smaller locale across from Galerías Pacífico on Calle Florida:

Plata Lappas, Avenida Santa Fe

Plata Lappas, Calle Florida

Located on one of the diagonal avenues not far from the center, the Lappas family vault takes a triangular shape. While it may not be covered with silver, the font is easily recognized:

Lappas, Recoleta Cemetery

Lappas, Recoleta Cemetery

Lappas, Recoleta Cemetery

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042. victorino de la plaza

Time for a little revisionist history.

When asked, most Argentines would say that President Roque Sáenz Peña made universal male suffrage national law in 1912. Without a doubt it was his administration that passed the law, but Roque Sáenz Peña died while in office, supposedly from diabetes. As Vice-President, Victorino de la Plaza inherited the difficult job of making sure the new electoral system would be honored. If he had caved in to pressure from the elite & not complied with the new law, Argentine history would be very different today.

Victorino de la Plaza grew up in poverty in the northern province of Salta but always did well in school. So well that he managed to obtain free education in the best schools in the country. He worked in the law office of Vélez Sarfield as an assistant during the writing of Argentina’s civil code, but he actually contributed much more than his title implied. De la Plaza first met Roque Sáenz Peña in that law office, & they remained friends for a lifetime. After fighting in the war with Paraguay, the costs for his education were waived since he was one of the best in his class.

From that moment, De la Plaza’s political career took off. He was appointed to several positions in both educational institutions, provincial & national government (including representative of his native Salta in Congress) & later a number of important foreign ministry & economic positions. De la Plaza spent 21 years in London, promoting Argentina every chance he could. While in the UK, he obtained important railroad investment & debt restructuring which helped Argentina become one of most modern nations in Latin America by the beginning of the 20th century.

Soon after returning to Argentina in 1907, Victorino de la Plaza ran as Vice-President on the Roque Sáenz Peña ticket. Sáenz Peña was in office from 1910 to 1914; De la Plaza completed the last 2 years of the 6-year term after the President passed away. Thanks to De la Plaza’s ability as a statesman, Argentina maintained neutrality throughout WWI & universal male suffrage successfully began in 1916.

But where is he? Multiple sources claim that he is buried in Recoleta Cemetery, but I’ve yet to see definitive proof. An old city government handout puts him near Marcelina Alen de Yrigoyen. Her tomb is pictured below. No plaque belongs to him there & the neighboring mausoleum is empty & undergoing repairs (note the scaffolding on the left):

Marcelina Alen de Yrigoyen, Recoleta Cemetery

Surely they wouldn’t disturb a President. A few tombs away is Victorino’s brother with a “De la Plaza y Castañeda Vega” nameplate (pix below). No Argentine flag is inside so Victorino is MIA. Any info would be appreciated:

De la Plaza y Castañeda Vega, Recoleta Cemetery

De la Plaza y Castañeda Vega, Recoleta Cemetery

Update: Mystery solved in January 2008.

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041. map recommendation

Budget Travel magazine (published by Frommer’s) highlights Buenos Aires in their latest edition.

Budget Travel, Dec 07/Jan 08 issue

Among their suggestions for activities while in town is a visit to Recoleta Cemetery… & to buy a map from me. I couldn’t agree more 🙂

Budget Travel, Dec 07/Jan 08 issue

For more info, click on the “walking tour map” link in the left sidebar. Thanks to all those who have already purchased a map… proceeds help keep this blog going!

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