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Author: Robert

060. herrera-noble

Herrera-Noble, Recoleta Cemetery

Roberto Noble founded Clarín on 28 August 1945 & is currently the most widely distributed newspaper in Argentina with over 400,000 copies printed daily… notable for retaining the tabloid (not broadsheet) layout to this day. The entire first edition was released as a PDF for its 50th anniversary in 2005. Below is that first front page headlining the atomic bomb dropped in Nagasaki & subsequent end of World War II:

Clarín, first edition

After Noble passed away in 1969, his wife—Ernestina Herrera de Noble—has successfully managed the paper. In the 1990s, she branched the company into all types of media. Currently the Grupo Clarín owns:

  • an AM station (Radio Mitre)
  • an FM station (99.9)
  • the AGR publishing facility
  • multiple regional newspapers
  • a national news agency (DyN)
  • the Canal 13 Buenos Aires public tv channel
  • three major cable stations (24-hr news coverage with Todo Noticias, sports coverage with TyC & classic Argie programming with Volver)
  • the Multicanal & Cablevisión cable networks
  • much, much more!

Herrera de Noble appeared in the news in 2002 after being indicted for adopting two children during Argentina’s last military dictatorship (1976-83). The children were up for adoption since their parents had been killed by the government & supposedly figured among the nation’s estimated 30,000 desaparecidos. The trial was later ruled in Herrera de Noble’s favor & charges dropped. But the results weren’t good enough for some people… additional DNA screenings performed in December 2007 proved negative for two families claiming to be birth relatives. Important not only for healing wounds caused by a dictatorship 40 years ago, other families will likely think twice before attempting to claim the enormous fortune of Herrera de Noble.

The adopted children underwent further DNA screening in July 2011, with results compared to the national DNA database of families who had children stolen during the years 1975 & 1976. All results were negative & hopefully the issue has been put to rest. At this point, many feel a formal apology should be issued since President Cristina Fernández de Kirchner & Grupo Clarín have been at odds for years… CFK likely hoped to send Ernestina Herrera de Noble to prison for human rights violations.

The Sociedad Argentina de Actores y Compositores de Música left a beautiful wreath in January 2008 on the anniversary of Noble’s death. During his time as a Representative in Congress, Noble pushed through a 1933 law establishing intellectual property rights.

S.A.D.A.I.C. wreath, Recoleta Cemetery

Ernestina Herrera de Noble passed away on 14 June 2017 at the age of 92. Clarín published an extensive biography of her life & success at the helm of company holdings. Three weeks before she passed away, Herrera de Noble was absolved from another court case backed by CFK’s former government. Ernestina had the last word after all.

Buenos Aires, Recoleta Cemetery, Ernestina Herrera de Noble

Last image published in the online edition of Clarín.

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058. familia manuel cerini ◊

Familia Manuel Cerini, Recoleta Cemetery

I’ve been unable to find out anything about who this family is or what they did, & the plaques on the front don’t help much. The interior is nice—a little barren—but with interesting stained glass:

Familia Manuel Cerini, Recoleta Cemetery

For me the highlight is the 1926 Art Deco statue on top by Troiano Troiani. It’s slightly out of proportion, but that makes it all the more appealing. Different times of day show different facets of this gigantic guy… definitely one of the most unique sculptures with an hourglass in the cemetery.

Familia Manuel Cerini, Troiano Troiani, Recoleta Cemetery

Familia Manuel Cerini, Troiano Troiani, Recoleta Cemetery

Familia Manuel Cerini, Troiano Troiani, Recoleta Cemetery

Familia Manuel Cerini, Troiano Troiani, Recoleta Cemetery

Familia Manuel Cerini, Troiano Troiani, Recoleta Cemetery

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057. new york times, travel section

Our former walking tours of Recoleta Cemetery appeared in the 04 Feb 2007 travel section of the NYT:

To most visitors, the Recoleta Cemetery in the upscale Recoleta district (intersection of Junín and Guido) is known as the place where Eva Perón’s body is buried. But the graveyard is also the final home of several presidents, scientists and other influential Argentines. Urban Explorer [a company run by Robert from 2003 to 2008] offers a history-filled recorded tour through the Art Nouveau, Art Deco and Modernist-style mausoleums. Highlights include the tomb of Luis Ángel Firpo, an Argentine heavyweight who once knocked Jack Dempsey out of the ring.

The original article can be found here.

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056. david spinetto ◊

David Spinetto, Recoleta Cemetery

As with most European families, Argentine-born sons were often named after their father, so there are actually two David Spinettos buried here. One was born in Genoa, immigrated to Argentina, & opened the first wholesale fruit & vegetable market within the city limits of Buenos Aires in 1898. Located in the center of town, it did a booming business. David’s plaque is on the left. On his death, the Mercado Spinetto was run by his son-in-law, Juan Sanguinetti… seen on the plaque on the right.

David Spinetto, Recoleta Cemetery
David Spinetto, Recoleta Cemetery

Unfortunately a wave of privatization in the 1990s shut the market down. Today only its shell remains —the interior gutted & occupied by a megachain supermarket:

Mercado Spinetto, Balvanera, Buenos Aires
Mercado Spinetto, Balvanera, Buenos Aires

Son David, born in Argentina, left his mark as well. He became a doctor but instead of practicing, opted for administration. He ran the Hospital Italiano & dedicated his life to promoting Italian culture. It’s not surprising that this spectacular door was imported from Milan in 1912… don’t miss the inscription on the lower left corner:

David Spinetto, Recoleta Cemetery
David Spinetto, Recoleta Cemetery

Magnificently Art Nouveau, the crown of thorns with a serpent intertwined at each corner has been turned into a decorative frame for St. George killing a dragon —a symbolic representation of the devil. St. George was a Christian soldier, born in Turkey & martyred around the year 300. As one of the patron saints of Genoa where the Spinettos hailed from, they pay a spectacular tribute to their homeland. Hands down, this gets my vote for Best Door in the entire cemetery.

David Spinetto, Recoleta Cemetery
David Spinetto, Recoleta Cemetery
David Spinetto, Recoleta Cemetery

The vine design surrounding the exterior cross is repeated inside… although it’s difficult to peek through small gaps in the St. George door. Another Art Nouveau-inspired image visible is a bat just above the altar. A creature of the night, what better animal to watch over the residents of a cemetery?

David Spinetto, Recoleta Cemetery

Update (25 Jul 2020): A reader from Italy (original comment below) has discovered that Milanese sculptors Carlo & Luigi Rigola designed that spectacular door for Palanti. In addition, they did the current doors for the Milan cathedral & many other works inside. An overview of their works together, including funerary sculpture, can be found on this website (in Italian). Grazie Carlo!!

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