Skip to content

AfterLife Posts

075. lázaro costa

Wandering around taking photos inside the cemetery, I stumbled upon a small sticker on the side of one vault:

Lazaro Costa sticker, Recoleta Cemetery

I recognized the name & logo because I live only two blocks from this funeral parlor. I may like Recoleta Cemetery, but I’m not morbid enough to suggest visiting a funeral parlor on the corner of Santa Fe & Callao:

Lazaro Costa, Buenos Aires

But at least go to the intersection to see the building where Lázaro Costa is the flagship store:

Mario Palanti, Santa Fe & Callao

This spectacular high rise was built by Italian architect Mario Palanti, famous for the Palacio Barolo… but this is equally fascinating. Sloped rooftops, rounded balconies & oddly-shaped domes are Palanti’s trademark. At any time of year, sunset is the best time to photograph this luxury apartment building:

Mario Palanti, Santa Fe & Callao

Leave a Comment

073. women in mourning

One of the most common sculptures in Recoleta Cemetery is a woman, usually cloaked or shrouded, in mourning. Since Catholicism stresses the role of Mary as mother & wife, a grieving woman has powerful symbolism here. Below are examples which range from tender to downright spooky.

Mourning woman, Recoleta Cemetery

Mourning woman, Recoleta Cemetery

Mourning woman, Recoleta Cemetery

Mourning woman, Recoleta Cemetery

Mourning woman, Recoleta Cemetery

Mourning woman, Recoleta Cemetery

Leave a Comment

072. polish immigrants

While not a large percentage of the immigrant population, a fair number of people arrived to Argentina from Poland. The Unión de los Polacos has a large, modern mausoleum along the back wall of the cemetery:

Unión de los Polacos, Recoleta Cemetery

The most illustrious I’ve found are the Count & Countess Zoltowski. He served as the Polish ambassador until his death in 1973:

Conde & Condessa Zoltowski, Recoleta Cemetery

But not all Polish immigrants were so lucky. Many Polish women in the early 1900s were brought to Argentina under the pretext of marriage to a wealthy, local businessman. Unfortunately when they disembarked, they were forced to work in prostitution. It was as dangerous then as it is now & over 1,000 of those women were buried in Avellaneda in a place called the Cemetery of Lost Souls (Cementerio de las Almas Perdidas).

9 Comments

071. luis maría campos ◊

Luis María Campos, Recoleta Cemetery

Lots of important people built their mausoleums along the cemetery’s outer walls… or at least lots of people with delusions of grandeur. Prior to the days of high-rise apartments, these were some of the best spots. And given the open views, it’s understandable that many families got carried away with size & decoration.

The Campos family dedicated themselves to military service & Luis María founded the War College (Escuela Superior de Guerra) in 1900. But in spite of Luis María’s historical merit, the mausoleum is one of the finest in the cemetery. Big & bold with lots of symbolism, Jules Félix Coutan, the head sculptor of the Paris School of Fine Arts at the beginning of the 20th century, created this work of art. Coutan had already designed & decorated several important buildings in Paris… so in a sense, Campos brought a piece of that city to Buenos Aires. Coutan’s signature is visible on the lower left:

Luis María Campos, Recoleta Cemetery

Luis María Campos stands with his sword to his heart while an angel beckons him to join her above. One thing that makes this sculpture unique is that Campos is supposedly so great, he towers over Argentina. The figure of a woman sitting at his feet supporting a shield is meant to represent the nation. Country should be more important, but the upper class usually has a very different view of what’s appropriate:

Luis María Campos, Recoleta Cemetery

Luis María Campos, Recoleta Cemetery

Luis María Campos, Recoleta Cemetery

Luis María Campos, Recoleta Cemetery

The Escuela Superior de Guerra can be found in Buenos Aires at the 400 block of the avenue which bears his name… with another statue of himself:

Luis María Campos, Escuela Superior de Guerra, Buenos Aires

Luis María Campos, Escuela Superior de Guerra, Buenos Aires

Update (10 Apr 2013): Incredible Art Nouveau image found in Campos’ obituary in society magazine Caras y Caretas (Año X, 19 Oct 1907, No. 472, page 52):

Recoleta Cemetery, Buenos Aires, Luis María Campos, Caras y Caretas

Leave a Comment