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AfterLife Posts

384. machinandiarena

Armando Bo, Recoleta Cemetery

María Teresa has laid in the Machinandiarena family vault since 1985, but her husband arrived a few years earlier. Producer, director & actor Armando Bó, one of the most interesting personalities of Argentine cinema due to his symbiotic union with —it’s impossible to speak about one without mentioning the other— the unrivaled Argentine erotic  diva, Isabel “Coca” Sarli.

Armando Bo, Recoleta Cemetery

Armando was already famous for producing & acting in “Pelota de trapo” (1948), a master work which can be compared to the best in the Italian Neorealism genre. But he discovered Isabel Sarli —Miss Argentina 1955— & created an  amazing 27 films where cheap melodrama & syrupy love ballads mix with fantastic landscapes & exotic tropical locales. It all served as a backdrop for the voluptuous body of Isabel, who in spite of her professed shyness filmed some of the most steamy scenes ever in Argentine cinema… often in the nude, bathing in every river or lagoon appearing the movie. Armando Bó & his son, Victor, were the men in her movies, making for a strange, incestuous love triangle. But despite his well-known affair, Armando never left his wife, María Teresa.

Who better to explain that strange relationship than John Waters? The video clip below contains his introduction to the movie “Fuego” (1969) as part of his television series “John Waters presents movies that will corrupt you.” Following the intro are selected scenes from movies containing the Bó-Sarli duo… ending with the phrase which has turned into Coca’s trademark: “¿Qué pretende de mí?” meaning “What do you want from me?” It’s pretty obvious.

Armando Bó had numerous problems with censorship in Argentina, & all of his movies were shown with entire sections cut. He passed away three years before the end of the last military dictatorship & its oppressive censorship. One important detail about the Machinandiarena family vault… it is not common to see a side door like this one, used to place caskets inside without having to navigate the narrow main door:

Armando Bo, Recoleta Cemetery

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383. tombs for sale

Mercado Libre ad

Something perhaps not all visitors realize is that Recoleta Cemetery is not a museum with permanent exhibits. Burials & ceremonies still occur & although there is something built on every square meter, it remains possible to find a burial spot there. According to real estate agents in the area, between 10-20% of the cemetery’s vaults are always for sale at any given time. In other words between 500-1,000 lots… quite a large number.

But Recoleta is not cheap… not the neighborhood nor its famous cemetery. An easy way to understand its relative cost is by looking at the rates charged by the city government for a burial niche. In Chacarita & Flores, the other large cementeries in Buenos Aires [also administered by the city], a first row niche costs 55 pesos per year & in Recoleta they charge 398 pesos… 720% more!

The same kind of price scheme applies to vaults. The majority are discreetly sold by real estate agencies in the area —obviously a “for sale” sign would never appear on a vault— but they can be purchased online through sites like Mercado Libre [the Argentine equivalent of eBay], & a greater price difference between cemeteries can be seen. A vault with 18 coffin beds costs US$ 16,000 in Chacarita & US$ 39,000 in Recoleta. The ads get your attention: “wrought-iron door, chapel with double altar, stained glass, marble staircase.” Luxurious. Although even that is not as expensive as it gets. There are vaults for sale which cost up to US$ 150,000.

Of course the largest & most famous vaults are priceless… & in those cases the family usually does everything possible to hold on to them. If anyone dreams about ending their days in Recoleta Cemetery, the only available option is to find a mid- to lower price range vault.

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382. tombstone recycling

Tombstone, Recoleta Cemetery

As Recoleta Cemetery slowly grew in status, its layout changed from grassy plots with simple tombstones to one of ornate mausoleums & vaults. Leftover from early days, a number of modest tombstones still dot the grounds… usually of Irish Catholic origin. Other tombstones were incorporated into the walls of family mausoleums. Most examples of this bizarre form of recycling are found in the section immediately to the left of the entrance gate, a few rows over from General Alvear:

Tombstone, Recoleta Cemetery

Tombstone, Recoleta Cemetery

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381. updates

Posts in AfterLife are frequently updated to reflect new or continuing developments, but most readers rarely sift through previous listings. No worries. Below are four important updates recently made… click on the link for the original post & scroll to the bottom to read the complete update.

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  • Back in Feb 2009, there was controversy over the possible repatriation of the remains of Jorge Luis Borges. Stopped by his widow, María Kodama, Borges will not be joining his relatives in Recoleta Cemetery any time soon.

  • The cemetery entrance remains a construction site six months after removal of the marble staircase in Aug 2009. The access ramp was quickly completed on the left side, but heritage organizations stopped any further work. Irreparable damage to the staircase has already occurred, so why keep the entrance in such a horrible condition?

  • Marcelo has made a lot of progress in uncovering facts behind the death of Liliana Crociati de Szaszak. With 34 comments to date, it is the most popular post of this blog & has generated the most controversy. Added to the original post are 1970 newspaper clippings which report the avalanche & consequent rescue mission.

  • We’re still waiting to hear from Congressman Roy Cortina for an update about the possible transfer of General José de San Martín proposed in Aug 2008. Stay tuned…
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380. life magazine, dec 1974

Life magazine, Eva & Juan Perón caskets

Found in the fantastic Life magazine archive; photo credited to Keystone/Getty Images & taken on 10 Dec 1974.

The bodies of Argentinian President Juan Domingo Peron (1895 – 1974) and his first wife Eva Peron, known as Evita, (1919 – 1952) at the Presidential Residence in Buenos Aires where they could be viewed by the public. The body of Eva Peron had been brought from a tomb in Italy.

This photo was taken about one month after the procession (see previous post), & the caskets could not have been on display for long… too much of a security risk. But the Montoneros got what they wanted —Evita back in Argentina.

After Isabel was ousted by the 1976 dictatorship, Eva’s next stop was Recoleta Cemetery. Perón went to his family vault in Chacarita. Although Perón was transferred to his San Vicente country estate in 2006, the (in)famous couple has never been reunited again.

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