Skip to content

Author: Marcelo

611. the gift shop… that never was

Recoleta Cemetery is not, as one might imagine, a static or immutable place. On the contrary, it is a living site that has undergone changes over the years —some of which have even occurred since this blog went online. In this regard, the most recent controversy involving change in the cemetery arose from a Gobierno de la Ciudad Autónoma de Buenos Aires (the official name for the city government, abbreviated as GCBA) plan —pursued via a public tender— to install a gift shop inside the grounds where visitors could buy souvenirs, book night tours, and purchase food & drinks. This sparked a major debate. The family that owned the mausoleum stepped forward, and following a heated dispute, the city administration was forced to halt the entire process.

Everything began in early August. On the 7th, the GCBA announced its intention to place in public tender the mausoleum identified as “Section 17 – Plot 201 – Graves 1 to 12” for the purpose of “providing comprehensive visitor services, including the operation of a gift shop, a food and/or beverage outlet, and a night tour service.”

To give our readers some context, Section 17 is located at the southwestern end of the cemetery, at the corner of Junín and Vicente López streets. The mausoleum in question sits next to a small exit built in recent years along Junín Street. In fact, the idea was for visitors to purchase these items before leaving the premises, thereby preventing them from consuming food or drink inside the cemetery itself.

Details

In short, Public Tender 10002-1251-LPU26 sought to award a five-year concession for this space located within the cemetery, with a base monthly fee of 1,600,000 pesos (approximately 1,050 USD at the current exchange rate). Additionally, the concessionaire would be required to remit at least 20% of gross revenue generated by night-time tourism activities to the Buenos Aires city government; the final figure was subject to the bidders’ proposals. The opening of bids was scheduled for September 9 via the Buenos Aires Compras portal.

The tender specifications provided further details: the establishment could offer institutional products & souvenirs linked to the history and heritage of the city and the cemetery, as well as simple food and beverages —either packaged or for immediate service, such as coffee and tea— sold exclusively on a take-away basis. In other words, there was no provision for table service, customers remaining inside the premises, or the use of reusable tableware.

Meanwhile, the night-time tourism service was to consist of guided tours & cultural, educational, and recreational activities designed to showcase the necropolis’s historical, artistic, architectural & funerary heritage. Activities were planned for Thursdays through Sundays between 19:00 and 23:00. Naturally, the establishment could remain open during those hours for product sales.

Controversy

Controversy erupted as soon as the tender was announced. Heritage preservation groups associated with the cemetery —most notably the Association of Friends of Recoleta Cemetery (Asociación de Amigos del Cementerio de la Recoleta, ADACRE)— raised a loud outcry.

To begin with, Article 22 of the city’s cemetery law (No. 4977) stipulates:

“All commercial activity, in any form, is prohibited —specifically the sale of vaults, mausoleums, niches, and funeral goods or services— within the grounds of cemeteries owned by the Government of the Autonomous City of Buenos Aires.”

Shortly thereafter, ADACRE issued a detailed statement on the matter. They expressed support for designating the space as a “Cultural Information and Outreach Center” but deemed the dining operations outlined in the tender specifications as “inappropriate.”

Nevertheless, they emphasized that “the coexistence of a heritage cemetery and a dining service is not technically impossible anywhere in the world. In every instance, it is a matter of institutional judgment made by those responsible for the site’s preservation.” Finally, they called for a “joint analysis to determine the most suitable approach” —one that would “safeguard the space’s cultural purpose, secure genuine funding for the cemetery’s restoration, and avoid the institutional strain that neither party desires.”

In the British Cemetery

Amidst this ongoing debate, AfterLife contacted the Cementerio Británico of Buenos Aires —one of the two “dissident cemeteries” adjacent to Chacarita Cemetery. The British Cemetery operates a service selling drinks, cookies and alfajores via vending machines located in a space next to the entrance; we wanted to understand how this system works, given the controversy surrounding the situation in Recoleta. Cemetery administrators told us: “First of all, a distinction must be made: Recoleta Cemetery is public, whereas our institution is private. Under our bylaws, we are permitted to engage in any activity —not just burials, but anything related to the proper management of the burial grounds.”

They added that the area where drinks and snacks are sold “wasn’t set up in a burial vault, but rather where the restrooms used to be. We haven’t had any issues, but it is a different situation because our operating permit allows for it. In the case of Recoleta, the vault doesn’t belong to the cemetery itself but to a family —unless, after a certain number of years, it reverts to the cemetery’s ownership, given that it is a public facility.” They concluded: “Any private cemetery has a reception area, an office, vending machines, and a coffee station.”

Public space or private vault?

The tender process obviously clashed with the legal framework of the Autonomous City of Buenos Aires… So how should this to be interpreted?

The provision calling for the establishment of this business refers to “a space located within the property known as Recoleta Cemetery” —meaning it does not use the word “vault.” Furthermore, it notes that the space would be a “public asset” belonging to the city. Jorge Macri’s administration stated —as reported by the newspaper Clarín— that the vault in question had been abandoned: “After the administrative procedure established by law was completed, it was returned to the city government.”

They explained that “some of the individuals who filed claims are not the vault’s titleholders; therefore, we believe the formal legal notice will have no effect. In the case of the Girado family, there are 30 titleholders, yet none of them has paid a single peso for the vault’s concession over the last 20 years. Specifically, the outstanding debt for the 2007–2026 period amounts to $22,215,070 [pesos].” That’s over 14,500 USD at present.

“Public notices have been published since 2025, formal legal notices were sent, and they also owe money for repairs to the vault —a total of $15,587,653,” they asserted.

Family pressure

But the Girado family, owner of the aforementioned “space,” counterattacked. “The tender was called while our deceased, our family, are still in the vault,” said lawyer Pablo Girado Passo. He said that it is a perpetual concession & that the vault was built in 1880. “We request the annulment of everything that has been done. Because the law also establishes that to recover ownership, the government has to reliably notify heirs. However, the notifications reached addresses where no heir lived,” he explained.

Specifically, Lucía Girado, the sister of the aforementioned lawyer, presented the file “Girado Lucía v. GCBA s/ amparo”, No. 193444/2026-0, before the Buenos Aires Contentious Administrative and Tax jurisdiction. Judge Roberto Gallardo acted there, ordering the vault to be opened and inspected on August 20, with the presence of Lucía, her lawyers, representatives of the Attorney General’s Office and cemetery authorities. After that inspection, on August 21, Gallardo decided to close the vault. During the visit, photographic and film records of the interior were made.

Finally the judge ordered the GCBA “to refrain from issuing the expiration of the concession of the land formed by graves 1 to 12 and the rest of No. 201, Section 17 of the Recoleta Cemetery, as well as from arranging for its eventual bidding or public auction.”

Thus, on August 26, the Buenos Aires Government published in its official bulletin a provision that “repeals the single-stage Public Tender No. 10002-1251-LPU26 for the granting of the concession for use and exploitation on an onerous basis of a Space located inside the property called Cementerio de la Recoleta, located at Junín No. 1760 of the Autonomous City of Buenos Aires.”

It all ended there. Although the judge, according to media in the Argentine capital, suggested that the Buenos Aires city government had initiated a second step, aimed at lucrative commercial exploitation in a place that could be outside the cemetery.

Although this first project ended in favor of the Girado family, we’ll have to wait & see if some type of kiosk is built outside cemetery grounds to provide visitors with basic services. The regular exit to Recoleta Cemetery should be back to normal now!

Leave a Comment

601. julieta candelaria estévez ◊

After a long time without major artistic additions, a new statue dazzles visitors to Recoleta Cemetery and has become a magnet for photographers. But unfortunately, a sad story accompanies the beautiful monument of a girl on roller skates.

Julieta was a young skater from Buenos Aires who spent time training at the GEBA (Gimnasia y Esgrima de Buenos Aires) and River Plate clubs. On 26 July 2018, two days before her 20th birthday, she died a sudden death… the exact cause has yet to be revealed by the family.

Initially buried in Chacarita Cemetery, a few months later in October 2018 Julieta was transferred to Recoleta Cemetery to a family vault in Section 6. The monument was inaugurated in April 2024, a 1.7 meter sculpture by the artist Jorge Luis Bianchi. Active since the 1980s, Bianchi is responsible for many works of art in Argentina including the provincial coats-of-arms that decorate a fence surrounding the Casa Rosada in Buenos Aires:

The GEBA club said goodbye to the young woman on 27 July 2018 with the following statement on Facebook:

“We regret to communicate the sad news of the death of Julieta Estévez, a skater for the River Plate Club who was also a GEBA skater. A girl full of life, projects, dreams and above all an excellent daughter, friend, partner and person. Our sincere condolences are with her family and friends at this painful moment, accompanying us with our prayers to ask for her eternal rest.

We will remember you forever Juli…❤”.

Marcelo thanks María Laje and Susana Gesualdi for information included in this post. Added to the Recoleta Cemetery map & guide in Jul 2024!

Leave a Comment

599. remembering jorge kaudi

In 2009, Robert found one of the few copies available of a book by Jorge Kaudi titled “Cementerio de la Recoleta — Guía de Visitantes,” the first of its kind ever written about the cemetery. It’s amazing what treasures you can find in the public libraries of Buenos Aires!

Fourteen years later in mid-2023, a group of researchers decided to revisit this trailblazing text, created when no one believed in the cultural & touristic potential of the necropolis. Surprisingly, the process of that re-edition began far from Recoleta, in a place near the city of Buenos Aires called San Isidro. María Laje, one of the editors along with Graciela Blanco & Susana Gesualdi, tells us the story.

“It all began thanks to the curiosity of Graciela Blanco, who researches the cemetery of San Isidro. In the decade of the 1950s, a tragedy took place there: twelve girls died in a factory fire. They were buried together in a mausoleum funded by donations from the general public, & it has a very beautiful (statue of an) angel. Graciela has written much about the history of this event over the years & was looking to find who had donated the statue. About a year & a half ago, she discovered that the donor was Jorge Kaudi, president of the Argentina Federation of Pétanque.”

“From that moment,” continues Laje, “Graciela looked into who Kaudi was & discovered that he was a builder of funeral vaults who had written a guidebook to Recoleta Cemetery. She found a reference to Kaudi in a book by Elba Villafañe Bombal titled ‘Intinerario histórico de Recoleta‘”.

“At that point, Susana Gesualdi accessed Kaudi’s book in the Museo Hernández, & I transcribed it on my computer. We copied it word for word, we didn’t correct any single part,” affirms María Laje.

Recoleta Cemetery, Buenos Aires, Jorge Kaudi
Invited guest, María Laje, Susana Gesualdi & Graciela Blanco in the presentation of Kaudi’s book, Recoleta Cemetery. Image courtesy of Alicia Rebollar.

Life story

“Once the book had been found, we needed to uncover more biographical information about Kaudi. Oscar de Masi (heritage specialist & former president of the National Commission of Monuments, Places & Historical Assets) gave Susana a tip: Kaudi’s date of death. With this information we went to newspaper archives to find his obituary & to see if there was any other info. Kaudí had donated his publication to various newspapers, so we searched in Clarín & La Nación but found nothing,” states Laje.

This all changed when “someone appeared from the Family Search website who wanted to help provide information. I commented that were were investigating the life of Kaudi, & this person took it upon themselves to find him on that webpage. That’s how we found his date of birth & a detail… that he had been born in Montevideo, Uruguay. We asked a friend there to obtain a copy of his birth certificate for us.”

“Afterwards,” Laje continues, “we began searching for vaults built by Kaudi in Recoleta. Susana found a few, while between Graciela & myself, we combed through the cemetery several times. This is how we found 49 vaults signed by him, although we’re sure that more exist.”

Recoleta Cemetery, Buenos Aires, Jorge Kaudi
Graciela Blanco, Susana Gesualdi & María Laje in the presentation of Kaudi’s book, Recoleta Cemetery. Image courtesy of Any Contín.

A pioneer

Concerning the guidebook previously mentioned, Laje points out that “it’s marvelous. Kaudi speaks 70 years ago about the importance of cemeteries like we do today. About how important the cemetery is, not as a final resting place, but somewhere you have to bring school groups, exactly the same as we say now. It’s unbelievable how he has fallen out of public memory.”

“This guy’s merit is remarkable, just for the effort in making that guidebook. No one had written anything before him, he was a pioneer,” continues Laje. She adds, “I believe we are going to do justice to the memory of Kaudi. Apart from your publication (Laje refers to our blog post mentioned & linked above), we found nothing else… except a reference that he had been president of the Argentine Federation of Pétanque. Recovering his life story was difficult. In fact, to this day we don’t know if he had any children. When he passed away, his wife & other family members appear in the obituary, but there is no mention of children.”

María Laje concludes, “It was an interesting undertaking that we’re satisfied with, mainly for remembering Kaudi & giving him his due recognition. In addition, we’re going to propose to Recoleta, where they are developing themed guided visits, that one should be about the works of Jorge Kaudi.”


The book “Cementerio de la Recoleta — Guía de Visitantes” by Jorge Kaudi originally appeared in 1955 with a second edition following one year later. That 1956 publication was the source for the reedition by those researchers mentioned above, & first appeared in mid-2023 as PDF available for free download. This year a physical edition was presented in Recoleta Cemetery on Saturday, 03 Feb 2024.

The authors gifted Marcelo a physical copy in September 2024:

1 Comment

536. familia de viñas

Recoleta Cemetery, Buenos Aires, De Viñas

Raúl Barón Biza (1899-1964) was many things: writer, cynic, millionaire, politician, lover, pornographer & a victim of suicide. Many online sources dig into his fascinating life, but for this post we’ll limit ourselves to his first love, her tragedy & her burial.

Barón Biza met the Swiss actress Myriam Stefford (née Rosa Martha Rossi Hoffmann) during a trip to Europe, & they married on 28 Aug 1930. Myriam grew bored with her new life running a large cattle ranch, so she began taking flight classes. In mid-August 1931 she announced that she was going to visit all 14 provinces in Argentina by airplane. Below is an excerpt of an interview with Luis Pozzo Ardizzi of the high society magazine Caras y Caretas:

— You’re thinking of using an airplane as your method of transportation?
— Of course! I’m training now to begin a quick trip around this country that I love so much.
— Will this be a groundbreaking trip?
— I don’t know –she says smiling– that will be for you to decide. I’m thinking about flying over all 14 provinces. And I’ll do it in my small B.F.W. airplane, with an 80 horsepower Siemens engine.
— You realize that someone else has already flown over all 14 provinces?
— I do. And with time on my side, I’ll do it as well.
— In how many days?
— She answers, smiling: If I can… in three…
— Does your airplane have a unique name?
— A modest name, because I’m starting this trip modestly. I call my airplane “Chingolo”. I want Chingolo to spread its wings for a breathtaking flight…
— Once finished, are you considering another big trip?
— Yes. I will try to show that a small plane, made for tourism, can do some interesting things.
— …?
— I’d like to try to reach North America…
— That’s a risky undertaking.
— It will be. But I’ve got enough enthusiasm to give it a go.
And after this last sentence, the charming movie star who has mastered all types of sport bids us goodbye to resume her training.
(Caras y Caretas 1715, 15 Aug 1931, pg. 18)

That “modest trip” ended tragically on August 26th, two days before Stefford’s first wedding anniversary. Chingolo II (the first had mechanical problems & had to be replaced with another plane) fell from the skies for reasons that were never known near Marayes in San Juan province. For Barón Biza the news was horrific; for the national media, who loved the aviatrix, it was catastrophic, as reflected in La Nación the next day:

La Nación, Chingolo II, Myriam Stefford

La Nación, Chingolo II, Myriam Stefford

La Nación, Chingolo II, Myriam Stefford

Three days after the accident, Stefford —who was never mentioned as “the wife of Barón Biza” because in reality their supposed marriage was a media farce— & her instructor Luis Fuchs were buried in Recoleta Cemetery. The actress/aviatrix was laid to rest in a mausoleum which then belonged to Wilfrid Barón, the father of Barón Biza. The structure was later sold to the Fabre family, & then to its current owner, the De Viñas family.

La Nación, Recoleta Cemetery, Myriam Stefford

Myriam didn’t stay in Recoleta long, since Raúl Barón Biza immediately ordered the construction of the largest sepulchre in the country: a monstrous vault 82 m tall placed in the countryside of Los Cerrillos, near Alta Gracia in Córdoba province. His friend, the engineer Fausto Regino Newton, designed the concrete monument whose meaning remains unclear to many: Is it the profile of a plane’s wing, as is often said? Is it an obelisk, taller than the one in Buenos Aires as many people from Córdoba proudly claim? Or is it an Egyptian symbol of resurrection?

Whatever its significance, Myriam Stefford moved there on 22 Nov 1935 & was placed under several meters of cement… that’s when legends began to circulate. It’s said that she was buried with her jewels, among them a 45-carat diamond named the “Cruz del Sur”, with Barón Biza laying traps to prevent anyone from profaning the tomb —including placing explosives— & on the very top a beacon whose light could be seen for several kilometers.

Alta Gracia, Myriam Stefford

Alta Gracia, Myriam Stefford

Alta Gracia, Myriam Stefford

The truth is that the monument remains in place after all these years, after a second great tragedy in the life of Barón Biza: one afternoon in August 1964 in an act of rage, he threw acid on the face of his second wife, Clotilde Sabatini, & immediately afterwards shot himself in the head. He had sold the land where Stefford’s mausoleum sits in Alta Gracia many years earlier.

This is how it looks now, abandoned & alone. A project has been proposed to convert the area into a theme park about the enigmatic writer & his young wife who passed away prematurely. In the meantime, the “wing” attracts the curious, as well as architecture fans & film students… also a number of distraught people who have unfortunately committed suicide by jumping from the tallest window.

Alta Gracia, Myriam Stefford

Alta Gracia, Myriam Stefford

Originally, the monolith displayed the motor of Chingolo II along with many plaques but all have since been removed or stolen. The entrance to the monolith remained opened for many years, but vandalism & attempted profanation prompted officials to solder the door shut permanently. No one now climbs the hundreds of steps to reach the top; supposedly the last time was in 2008. The future of this forgotten monument remains uncertain.

Alta Gracia, Myriam Stefford, mausoleum

Alta Gracia, Myriam Stefford, mausoleum

Thanks to co-author Marcelo Metayer for contributing this post. The original version in Spanish (with additional text & photos) can be found on his blog: El Navegante Solitario.


Update (20 Nov 2025): Marcelo gave a presentation in Spanish about this striking funerary monument on the YouTube channel “Revista Patrimonio Funeral” (jump to 04:44 for the beginning). He shares updated investigation such as confirming that Barón Biza & Stefford were never actually married, there might have been some foul play with her death & a revealing 2016 documentary titled “Agosto Final” that gained access to the mausoleum’s interior.

Yet many questions remain unanswered… Where did Stefford’s jewelry end up? What other works did Fausto Newton construct? How is it possible that all of Barón Biza’s family, including himself, commit suicide? There’s plenty of work for future investigators!

Leave a Comment