Skip to content

Category: Current events

405. continuing entrance gate construction

Buenos Aires, Recoleta Cemetery, entrance gate

Following the rain damage in February 2010, access to Recoleta Cemetery through the main entrance gate was restricted. Urgent repairs were necessary, & at the closing of this blog in March some restoration had begun. Returning 3.5 months later, the city government seems to have taken advantage of events to undertake a larger project.

A few details are available on an infopanel located outside. In the space of 45 days, the city will pay Naku Construcciones about 225,000 pesos (currently U$S 57,000) for restoration under the supervision of architect Santiago Jorge Bayazbakian. Of Armenian descent, Bayazbakian has done a number of works for the city under Macri’s administration. What’s unclear is how the final project will look. Sketches show day & night representations of the cemetery, but as it appeared before the staircase destruction in May 2010… no handicapped ramp to be found:

Buenos Aires, Recoleta Cemetery, entrance gate

Covering the entire gate is the following text:

Buenos Aires, Recoleta Cemetery, entrance gate

Aquí se encuentra el peristilo de acceso al Cementerio de la Recoleta, obra del arquitecto Juan Buschiazzo. La construcción del peristilo le fue encomendada en 1880 por el primer Intendente de la ciudad de Buenos Aires, Torcuato de Alvear, en el marco de la remodelación integral del Cementerio. Consiste en un pórtico de entrada con doble hilera de columnas dóricas y escalones de mármol de Carrara blanco. Fue declarado Monumento Histórico Nacional por Decreto 1.289/07. La obra actual busca readecuar el acceso al peristilo del Cementerio de la Recoleta, recuperando su diseño y características al momento de ser declarado Monumento Histórico, resguardando y poniendo en valor este destacado icono del Cementerio y de la ciudad.

Here can be found the peristyle entrance of Recoleta Cemetery, the work of architect Juan Buschiazzo. The peristyle’s construction was commissioned in 1880 by the first mayor of the city of Buenos Aires, Torcuato de Alvear, as part of a remodel of the entire cemetery. It consists of an entrance gate with double rows of Doric columns & white Carrara marble staircases. It was declared a National Historic Monument by Decree 1,289/07. Current works seek to refurbish the peristyle entrance, recovering its design & characteristics at the moment it was declared a historical monument, saving & recognizing this well-known icon of the cemetery & of the city.

It is interesting how the text alludes to the staircase destruction for those in the know & how it provides a cryptic message for those who don’t. There is no mention of rain damage. If the staircase is to be replaced, where will the marble come from? Seems like such a large project would take more than 45 days.

Given current works, the main entrance has been under construction/destruction for over one year:

Buenos Aires, Recoleta Cemetery, entrance gate

Buenos Aires, Recoleta Cemetery, entrance gate

Buenos Aires, Recoleta Cemetery, entrance gate

Until completion of the project, the only access to Recoleta Cemetery is via a service entrance to the left of the main gate:

Buenos Aires, Recoleta Cemetery, entrance gate

Update (07 Nov 2010): Works on the entrance gate appear to be almost complete. New bathrooms are installed, but the project has taken considerably longer than the original plan. Hopefully the main entrance will be open by the end of the year:

Main entrance gate, Recoleta Cemetery

Update (29 Nov 2010): Scaffolding has been removed, the paint has dried, office space has been added & new restrooms have been installed. But most impressive is that the marble staircase of the entrance gate has been restored. Yea! No more handicapped access ramps & the symbols above are no longer the sickeningly sweet, Sevilla-inspired ochre yellow. They now have a mottled, aged effect which looks quite nice. The gate should be open to the public soon:

Main entrance gate, Recoleta Cemetery

For a first-hand look at what archaeologists uncovered during the entire process, Daniel Schávelzon & his team wrote this article: “El pórtico central del cementerio de la Recoleta: estudio de su escalinata frontal”. Enjoy!

6 Comments

401. new regulation

Recoleta Cemetery, new regulation

Above is a composite photo taken today requesting that anyone entering the cemetery kindly refrain from photographing caskets.

Not sure why anyone would care… part of the benefit of being laid to rest in Recoleta Cemetery is that all visitors can take a peek inside the family vault. No one seemed to be monitoring but if someone has more info about this recent regulation, I would gladly add it to this post.

Over the next couple weeks, there will be a bit of new content added here since big changes taking place at the cemetery these days… maybe even a new bio! How exciting 🙂

Leave a Comment

400. hasta luego… for now

Beautiful decay, Recoleta Cemetery

All good things must come to an end, & after several years of researching Recoleta Cemetery it’s time to concentrate to other projects.

We will continue to post as time permits but nothing as regular as our standard 3 posts/week. The prolonged pause is necessary in order to develop additional walking tours around Buenos Aires… & the rest of the world. Exciting stuff! Also, another year of full-time work in Europe means I will be away from Buenos Aires for most of this year.

By way of a summary, here are a few interesting stats:

First post: 03 Oct 2007

Total # of posts: 400

Total word count: almost 82,000 or about the size of a small novel

Readership: over 3,000 unique visitors per month, about 180-200 per day. Amazing for a blog about a cemetery!

Most comments: Liliana Crociati de Szaszak

Total number of photos posted: almost 1,200

Number of bilingual posts: currently 155, or 39%. Unfortunately Spanish text is not available at the moment, but we’re working on bringing it back!

Don’t worry, we’re not going anywhere; this blog will remain online. Since so little information in English exists about Recoleta Cemetery, this should remain a valuable resource for the future. Much work is left to be done to make AfterLife 100% bilingual… it will come eventually. Purchasing the PDF guide will help maintain this site for everyone.

Demystifying urban legends is something Marcelo & I have worked hard to accomplish. Recoleta Cemetery—the most visited site in Buenos Aires—has much more value than those few wild & crazy stories. As the last paragraph of the PDF guidebook states:

… in spite of all the money spent to be immortalized forever, it is difficult to ignore the irony that so many prominent families have fallen on hard times. Argentina today is not the country those families envisioned, whatever their personal ideology. Several of the same issues they tried to resolve still exist today for a different generation. Recoleta Cemetery should therefore offer guidance & hope for the future. What better place to be inspired by beauty, honor past achievements & learn from previous mistakes?

Enrique García Velloso, Recoleta Cemetery
4 Comments

388. rain damage

Entrance gate rain damage, Recoleta Cemetery

Due to heavy rains in Buenos Aires over the past week—the city received more than a normal month’s rainfall in just a few days—the entrance gate to Recoleta Cemetery suffered serious damage. Large portions of stucco crashed down last Saturday, & city engineers were on site Monday to figure out a course of repair.

Surprisingly enough, the ceiling is not made of brick like most buildings in Buenos Aires but merely a hollow, wooden frame. Architect Buschiazzo’s budget must have been tight in 1881:

Entrance gate rain damage, Recoleta Cemetery

Update (06 Mar 2010): It seems like city officials are taking advantage of the damage in order to make other improvements. The women’s restroom is currently gutted… perhaps a new one is on the way. For the moment, the men’s restroom is for the ladies. This is probably the only time to see the ceiling structure:

Entrance gate, former women's restroom, Recoleta Cemetery

Entrance gate, former women's restroom, Recoleta Cemetery

2 Comments

381. updates

Posts in AfterLife are frequently updated to reflect new or continuing developments, but most readers rarely sift through previous listings. No worries. Below are four important updates recently made… click on the link for the original post & scroll to the bottom to read the complete update.

————————————

  • Back in Feb 2009, there was controversy over the possible repatriation of the remains of Jorge Luis Borges. Stopped by his widow, María Kodama, Borges will not be joining his relatives in Recoleta Cemetery any time soon.

  • The cemetery entrance remains a construction site six months after removal of the marble staircase in Aug 2009. The access ramp was quickly completed on the left side, but heritage organizations stopped any further work. Irreparable damage to the staircase has already occurred, so why keep the entrance in such a horrible condition?

  • Marcelo has made a lot of progress in uncovering facts behind the death of Liliana Crociati de Szaszak. With 34 comments to date, it is the most popular post of this blog & has generated the most controversy. Added to the original post are 1970 newspaper clippings which report the avalanche & consequent rescue mission.

  • We’re still waiting to hear from Congressman Roy Cortina for an update about the possible transfer of General José de San Martín proposed in Aug 2008. Stay tuned…
Leave a Comment