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Author: Robert

493. martín karadagián

Recoleta Cemetery, Buenos Aires, Martín Karadagián

Born in Buenos Aires in 1922, Karadagián used his father’s heritage for a nickname in the professional wrestling world: the Armenian. After retiring from Greco-Roman wrestling, he switched to acting… playing a wrestler down on his luck in the 1957 film “Reencuentro con la gloria.”

These two worlds would come together when Karadagián began the tv show Titanes en el Ring in 1962. Similar to what Americans recognize as the World Wrestling Federation, Karadagián occasionally fought but often kept to the role of announcer. The show remained on the air until 1988, & Karadagián passed away a few years later in 1991.

Recoleta Cemetery, Buenos Aires, Martín Karadagián

Although there is little to identify his tomb, two bronze plaques express sorrow at Karadagián’s departure. These type of plaques are more often found in Chacarita Cemetery, so they are even more endearing here. A peek inside shows the wrestler with his unmistakeable haircut:

Recoleta Cemetery, Buenos Aires, Martín Karadagián

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492. caídos en la revolución del 1890 ◊

Recoleta Cemetery, Buenos Aires, Caídos en la Revolución del 1890

After becoming President in 1886, Miguel Juárez Celman began to distance himself from political supporters & preferred to do things his own way. Concentrating power in his own hands, the public referred to the term of Juárez Celman as a unicato… a one-man rule. After three years in office & with inflation out of control, diverse groups expressed their discontent with Juárez Celman. Upper class families, members of the clergy, university leaders, senators & the emerging middle class joined forces to form the Unión Cívica. Their main goal was to defeat the Juárez Celman in upcoming elections. But at the same time, preparations were being made for a coup d’etat.

Leading the Unión Cívica, Leandro Alem conspired with an influential general, Manuel Campos (brother of Luis María Campos). Planned for July 21st, the revolution was aborted by the arrest of key figures… someone had leaked information about the surprise attack. General Campos was taken under custody & while in prison received a visit by none other former President Roca. More sneaky plans were underway.

Recoleta Cemetery, Buenos Aires, Caídos en la Revolución del 1890

From his cell, Campos sent word to Alem to go ahead with their plans & fighting broke out early on 26 July 1890. Government forces used Retiro as their base of operations while Alem’s men were concentrated in Plaza Lavalle, now home of the Supreme Court.

As civilians rose up in arms to oust Juárez Celman, battles took place in the heart of Buenos Aires. Fighting continued sporadically for the next few days. General Campos made obvious military mistakes & gave the government ample time to recover & fight back. Alem noted these irregularities at the time but given the difficult situation, deferred to the general’s orders. Violence ended four days later with a truce. Estimates of those killed or wounded range from 300 to over 1,000. While the revolution was not successful in overthrowing the government, the political landscape quickly changed afterwards.

Recoleta Cemetery, Buenos Aires, Caídos en la Revolución del 1890

Juárez Celman lost support due to the conflict & resigned, handing the government to Vice-President Carlos Pellegrini. Although no historical record exists of conversations between Campos & Roca, it is taken for fact that Campos made bad tactical decisions on purpose. He threw the revolution so Roca & his elite allies could remain in power. The UC also had difficult times afterwards & split into two groups. One year later the Alem faction transformed into the UCR–Unión Cívica Radical. The UCR still plays an important role in politics as the main alternative to the Peronist party.

Recoleta Cemetery, Buenos Aires, Caídos en la Revolución del 1890, plaques

Numerous plaques cover the base of the entire pantheon, housing a few of the fallen during the revolution but many important figures from the UCR: party founder Leandro Alem, President Hipólito Yrigoyen (top casket with flag), & President Arturo Illia (silver casket). During the term of President Frondizi, this tomb was declared a National Historic Monument… even President Alfonsín spent a few months here until his own tomb was under construction.

Recoleta Cemetery, Buenos Aires, Caídos en la Revolución del 1890

All subplots & internal division aside, strong civilian support of the attempted revolution marked the beginning of civil society in Argentina & the birth of a radical political party. Every major figure on both sides of the Revolución de 1890 can be found somewhere in Recoleta Cemetery.

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491. kitty sunset

For a long time I’ve considered creating a space for contributions… photos of the cemetery I find interesting taken by someone other than Marcelo or me. Or perhaps highlight online galleries of Recoleta Cemetery. Not really sure what form it will take…

But here’s our first contribution. Romina Berardi is an interpreter & translator by occupation but also loves photography. Her equipment of choice is a Nikon D60, & I couldn’t resist her capture of a cat at sunset. Thanks for the contribution!

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489. familia duarte plaques

Recoleta Cemetery, Buenos Aires, Eva Perón plaque

Naturally, most plaques on the Duarte family mausoleum pay homage to its most famous member: Eva Perón. Varied organizations, such as the large CGT workers’ union & residents of her home town, make expected appearances. However, the most surprising of the bunch would be the Sindicato de Peones de Taxis… the taxi drivers’ union. I wonder what connections they had in order to obtain family permission to post a plaque:

Recoleta Cemetery, Buenos Aires, Eva Perón plaque

Recoleta Cemetery, Buenos Aires, Eva Perón plaque

Recoleta Cemetery, Buenos Aires, Eva Perón plaque

Recoleta Cemetery, Buenos Aires, Eva Perón plaque

Recoleta Cemetery, Buenos Aires, Eva Perón plaque

Recoleta Cemetery, Buenos Aires, Eva Perón plaque

Other family members also share the limited space. Eva’s brother, Juan Duarte, supposedly committed suicide, but several historians have proposed that he fell out of favor with Perón after Eva died… perhaps with Perón even ordering Juan’s murder. We will likely never know the truth:

Recoleta Cemetery, Buenos Aires, Juan Duarte plaques

Finally, three plaques are for Major Alfredo Arrieta, husband of Eva’s sister, Elisa. He retired from the military in 1938 then served as senator for the Province of Buenos Aires from 1946 until his death in 1950:

Recoleta Cemetery, Buenos Aires, Major Alfredo Arrieta plaques

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488. brenna

Recoleta Cemetery, Buenos Aires, Brenna

One year before Recoleta Cemetery opened, a flour mill & its corresponding shop for baked goods began operation in 1821 at the intersection of Rivadavia & Rodríguez Peña. Almost four decades later, it became known as the Confitería del Molino. The business was acquired in 1886 by Gaetano Brenna who had a clear vision of making the best sweets in Buenos Aires.

Recoleta Cemetery, Buenos Aires, Brenna

Part of Brenna’s business plan included expanding his facilities. Purchasing two buildings & a warehouse at the intersection of Callao & Rivadavia, Brenna hired immigrant Italian architect Francisco Gianotti to join the three structures & build up, up, up. Gianotti wasted no time during the six years he had been in Argentina, already having built several apartment buildings & just completing the Galería Güemes the previous year. He was definitely one of the star architects of the moment. Brenna made Gianotti promise not to interrupt normal, day-to-day business of the confitería & the results were spectacular.

Buenos Aires, Confitería del Molino, Francisco Gianotti

Given its location at one of the most important intersections in the city center & adjacent to Congress, the Confitería del Molino quickly became the success Brenna had envisioned 20 years earlier. Politicians, tango celebrities like Tita Merello, foreign dignitaries, literally everyone hung out there.

Unfortunately, business began to decline in the 1950’s & each coming decade brought new challenges for the Brenna family. Shortly after filming a scene for the Alan Parker version of “Evita” plus a video for the Madonna release “Love Don’t Live Here Anymore,” the Confitería del Molino closed its doors forever in January 1997. The building sat disintegrating for decades, but restoration plans are almost complete in 2020. One day soon, we may be able to enjoy a coffee & pastry here just like porteños from bygone days.

Buenos Aires, Confitería del Molino, Francisco Gianotti, Art Nouveau

Art lovers should take a peek inside the tomb for one of the finest mosaics in the cemetery:

Recoleta Cemetery, Buenos Aires, Brenna

Like Art Nouveau? Learn about the architects of the era, their individual styles & what makes Art Nouveau in Buenos Aires so unique with a 33-page guide from our sister site, Endless Mile.

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