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155. map development 4

By early 2006, my general map was complete. But the entire project was put on hold since my walking tours were booming. It became impossible to juggle everything. Also, as I did more tours of downtown Buenos Aires, it seemed that a guidebook to that area was more important so I shifted focus to that.

At the same time, the Friends’ Association of Recoleta Cemetery (ADACRE) began publishing a map & selling it at the front gate for 4 pesos [Update: 2009 price is 6 pesos, 2011 price is 8 pesos]. Proceeds went to fund recent restoration work not done by any national or city organization in decades. Good for them. Although much better than previous maps, even their effort needed some improvement:

ADACRE map, Recoleta Cemetery

Both the foldable square format & the price were right. And 159 tombs were listed… many more than the 89 from the previous map. The interior contained a few black & white photos with a brief historical summary in Spanish, French, English & German. So far, so good.

But in an effort to be more inclusive, the design suffered. Due to space constraints, the only text that could accompany each name was a single word: President, poet, writer, politician. Most people outside Latin America have probably never heard of these people before, & a one-word biography seems worse than nothing at all. Finally, the list of personalities is not in alphabetical order & is not practical if you want to look for someone in particular:

ADACRE map

But the biggest problem was the actual map itself. It looks like someone took the hand-drawn map pictured in Part 1 of this series, scanned it, & used it without editing anything. Lines are crooked & the tomb divisions are incorrect. The numbers used are placed haphazardly… no order at all. In the photo below, the entrance is shown with a huge range of numbers (#1, #42, #71 & #146). For easy use, the map should be arranged numerically or alphabetically, but this was neither:

ADACRE map

The ADACRE map was by far the best yet, but apparently the graphic designer has little experience.

Read the complete story in the following posts titled “map development”: Part 1, Part 2, Part 3, Part 5, Part 6 & Part 7. Good news! The PDF guidebook is now available.

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153. de tomaso

De Tomaso, Recoleta Cemetery

One of the most spectacular works of Art Deco in the entire cemetery with a severe woman holding an oil lamp. Unfortunately no info about the architect for this masterpiece:

De Tomaso, Recoleta Cemetery

A copper-plated door shines in late afternoon light. The raised text reads: His heart gave out (literally, “broke”) from endless work [for his fellow man].

De Tomaso, Recoleta Cemetery

De Tomaso, Recoleta Cemetery

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152. dragonflies

Surprisingly enough, mid-January is dragonfly season in Buenos Aires. It’s hard to believe that a large urban area can support a dragonfly population, but for a short period they are easy to find. The photo below is not one of my best, but I was surprised to see one of these brown & blue beauties relaxing for a few seconds:

Dragonfly, Recoleta Cemetery

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151. carlos tejedor

Carlos Tejedor, Recoleta Cemetery

One of the great opposers of Juan Manuel de Rosas & Nicolás Avellaneda is here… or maybe not.

Born in 1817, Tejedor became politically active while studying law at the University of Buenos Aires. Firmly against authoritairan Rosas, he decided to ride the storm & remain in Buenos Aires while most of his friends went into exile. Forming the Club de los Cinco, Tejedor plotted against Rosas with ranchers in the southern province. If a revolution could hit Rosas where it hurt economically, then perhaps he could be removed from politics. Fat chance. The Maza Conspiracy failed, forcing Tejedor to flee to Chile.

Returning to Buenos Aires after Rosas left for England, Tejedor was elected to Congress twice but resigned both times based on principle. He fought for the independence of Buenos Aires along with fellow intellectuals Valentín Alsina, Adolfo Alsina, José Marmol & Pastor Obligado. Representing Buenos Aires after the 1859 Battle of Cepeda, the city swore to the national consititution but did not hand over the big prize of port duties. In turn, this lead to the 1861 Battle of Pavón & yet another defeat for Buenos Aires.

In 1878, Tejedor became governor of the Province of Buenos Aires & openly opposed President Nicolás Avellaneda. Although strongly supported, Tejedor failed to defeat Roca in the presidential elections of 1880. When Tejedor learned of Avellaneda’s plan to make Buenos Aires the national capital, he gathered forces to overthrow the current President & annul election results. Avellaneda fled to Belgrano (at that time not incorporated into the city limits of Buenos Aires) & left President-elect Roca in charge of the Army. After battles in Flores, Barracas, & Parque Patricios, Tejedor’s forces were defeated.

Carlos Tejedor did not resign from politics & later wrote a book titled “La Defensa de Buenos Aires” about the 1880 insurrection. But here’s my beef. Historians claim Tejedor died in 1903. Everyone else says Tejedor is buried here. The gloomy 1899 tomb pictured above doesn’t make sense. Tejedor should have a larger tomb based on his importance in national affairs, or at least the dates should coincide.

What gives?

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