Category: Business

The most remarkable thing about this mausoleum—apart from its size & beautiful state of disrepair—isn’t easily noticed at first glance. Along the left side behind the iron gate is a single tombstone which fits neatly in the gap:

The inscription reads:

Catalina Dogan falleció el 31 de agosto de 1863 a los setenta y cinco años de edad. Fue en su humilde clase de sirvienta un modelo de fidelidad y de honrrades.

Catalina Dogan passed away the 31st of August, 1863 at the age of 75. She was, in her humble class of servant, a model of loyalty & honor.

That’s right. The maid was buried on the same plot as the family she worked for… but of course not inside.

Upper-class families that made their fortune either through agriculture or livestock had large estates to manage & required servants to raise children, maintain mansions & naturally to keep up appearances. Some servants became surrogate family members as in the case of Catalina Dogan. In spite of being exposed to the elements, this family obviously thought the world of her & bestowed a great honor by burying her here.

Update (Mar 2023): According to the former director of the cemetery, the tombstone has been temporarily removed for restoration. No estimate on its return date.

Even though he’s missing an arm, this statue of an Italian immigrant is unique to Recoleta Cemetery. He represents one of the newly arrived in Argentina, stepping off a boat onto dry land. Typical peasant garb of a scarf, pants, & boots make his Italian origins obvious. The short phrase written on the boat provides one final clue: “Ayudate” (Help yourself). It’s a wonderful representation of an immigrant who makes a fresh start in a new country.

The Roveranos came from the region of Genoa, Italy & amassed a small fortune as owners of the now-demolished Confitería del Gas. This famous café in downtown Buenos Aires served customers in the original location of the Café Tortoni. When the Tortoni moved to where it is today, the Roverano family set up their own competing café. In 1882, theirs had the distinction of being the first business in Buenos Aires fitted with electric lamps. Very hi-tech for the time.

The Roveranos also bought property close to the main square & opened a commercial passageway named after them. Their café may not be around these days, but entering the Pasaje Roverano (directly behind the Cabildo) is like going back to the early 20th-century with an old-time barbershop, beautiful stained glass, & nicely preserved woodwork:

The Roveranos decided to change cemeteries in 1919 so this has been vacant for several decades, yet the ideal that brought them to Argentina remains intact. Supposedly they spent over one million pesos to build the new family vault in Chacarita Cemetery:

Update (08 Feb 2012): Much of the Colección Witcomb has been made available online, including photo #369 which shows our favorite Italian immigrant with his arm intact:

Imagine one of the most beautiful girls in Buenos Aires high society—no more than 16 years old—& married off to a much, much older man. It was 1862 after all, & the odd couple was Felicitas Guerrero & Martín de Álzaga. Felicitas had one son from the marriage, but he died at the age of 6… hubby Martín passed away the following year. Nothing very out of the ordinary so far.

Felicitas still had her beauty & had also inherited a huge fortune. No wonder she became the object of every man’s attention in Buenos Aires. One of her suitors turned out to be extremely jealous. When he found out that Felicitas might have feelings for someone else, he went to her estate in the neighborhood of Barracas to demand an explanation. Felicitas obviously wasn’t very convincing because he shot her twice & she died the following day, 30 Jan 1872. Tragic. And today marks the anniversary.

The family fortune passed to the parents of Felicitas, & they built an enormous church in her memory. Over the years, a tradition developed that women come to the Iglesia de Santa Felicitas on January 30th, tie a ribbon to the gate & ask for help finding their true love. It’s a wonderful legend… Felicitas, Martín & their son are all buried in Recoleta Cemetery.

The tomb is fairly simple with 4 statues of women on each corner symbolizing either an aspect of virtue or mortality. A fancy wrought-iron gate is guarded by two lions:

The gorgeous Iglesia de Santa Felicitas faces Plaza Colombia in the neighborhood of Barracas. Afternoon is the best time to visit as the sun sets over the main façade: