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379. gente magazine, nov 1974

Revista Gente, 21 nov 1974, "Los restos de Eva Perón están en Argentina"

A wonderful online source, Mágicas Ruinas takes popular magazines from Argentina during the 20th century & reposts original photos & reports… a great documentation source. After the Montoneros held the corpse of de facto President Pedro Aramburu as ransom for the return of Eva Perón embalmed body, she finally returned to Argentina on November 17, 1974. The following article appeared in Gente.

Update (28 Jul 2010): Marcelo obtained a copy of the 21 Nov 1974 issue of Gente, so we replaced the scans from Mágicas Ruinas with our own. Text has also been added & translated which did not appear online.

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Saturday, the 16th, 16:00. The Aerolíneas Argentinas Boeing 707 especially destined for the final transfer to Argentina of the mortal remains of María Eva Duarte de Perón positioning on the runway of the international airport in Barajas, Madrid, ready to begin the historic return flight. The funeral procession was sent off by Spanish Foreign Minister Pedro Cortina Mauri. Vigilant reporters waited for hours:

Revista Gente, 21 nov 1974, "Los restos de Eva Perón están en Argentina"

Sunday, the 17th, 06:00. The specially-fitted Aerolíneas Argentinas Boeing 707 has arrived at the Morón air base. An Argentine Air Force Fokker TC-76 waited there, whose mission was to transfer the casket with the remains of Eva Perón to the metropolitan airport (Aeroparque). Heavy security had been placed at both military bases. After 19 years, the remains of Eva Perón returned to the country:

Revista Gente, 21 nov 1974, "Los restos de Eva Perón están en Argentina"

Sunday, the 17th, 10:00. After the Air Force plane landed at Aeroparque, the casket is lowered & place in a hearse which would immediately take it to the official stage, where the President & other high authorities waited. Meanwhile along the coast gathered in silence to witness the procession exit to Olivos:

Revista Gente, 21 nov 1974, "Los restos de Eva Perón están en Argentina"

Aeroparque, military zone, 10:05. From left to right, Ivanissevich, Rocamora, Savino, Campano, Martinez, López Rega, Blanca Duarte & Herminda Duarte (sisters of Eva Perón) & María Estela Martinez:

Revista Gente, 21 nov 1974, "Los restos de Eva Perón están en Argentina"

Funeral prayer. Aeroparque, 10:10. The chaplain of the General San Martín Horse Guard regiment, reverend father Héctor Ponzo, prays a final blessing for the soul of Eva Perón. Impressive general silence:

Revista Gente, 21 nov 1974, "Los restos de Eva Perón están en Argentina"

Aeroparque, Sunday, the 17th, 10:15. After the funeral prayer, the heavily guarded coffin is slowly taken by the hearse out of the military zone area of Aeroparque. Soon after, cars began the journey toward the Presidential residence in Olivos, while people threw flowers on the street & cried out along the entire route: Thank you, Isabel:

Revista Gente, 21 nov 1974, "Los restos de Eva Perón están en Argentina"

The procession, Avenida Libertador & General Paz. Motorcycle Federal Police, dressed in formal uniform, escort the procession, drawing a symmetric & moving scene. The car with the President goes immediately behind the hearse:

Revista Gente, 21 nov 1974, "Los restos de Eva Perón están en Argentina"

Flowers, silence. Along the entire way people threw flowers as the funeral procession passed in Vicente López. The only things left are the empty street, stains of color on the cement, a few police agents & people with signs. The remains of Eva Perón are already in Olivos (the presidential residence):

Revista Gente, 21 nov 1974, "Los restos de Eva Perón están en Argentina"

Waiting. Intersection of Villate & Libertador. The procession is about to enter the residence in Olivos. People who have waited hours express emotion as the coffin of Eva Perón passes. This took 19 years to happen. There are choruses, flags & mourning:

Revista Gente, 21 nov 1974, "Los restos de Eva Perón están en Argentina"

Olivos, Sunday, the 17th, 10:38. The remains of Eva Perón arrive at the Presidencial residence in Olivos. The unloading of the coffin is witnesses by María Estela Martinez de Perón, José López Rega & the Argentine embassador in Spain, José Campano Martinez. At that time, the men & women who had come to receive the body of Eva Perón returned to their homes:

Revista Gente, 21 nov 1974, "Los restos de Eva Perón están en Argentina"

To the crypt. Presidencial residence in Olivos. At 10:40 the coffin with the remains of Eva Perón is taken to the crypt which holds the body of Juan Domingo Perón. A dramatic chapter in Argentine history comes to an end:

Revista Gente, 21 nov 1974, "Los restos de Eva Perón están en Argentina"

Olivos, Sunday, the 17th, 10:45. Historical moment. Eva Perón’s casket enters the crypt where Juan Domingo Perón rests in peace. It was placed on a pedestal in front of the altar to Our Lady of Luján. Within two weeks, after some site improvements, the coffin will be placed alongside that of Perón, where it will remain until the construction of the National Altar:

Revista Gente, 21 nov 1974, "Los restos de Eva Perón están en Argentina"

In the crypt. The casket with the remains of Eva Perón now rests in front of the altar of Our Lady of Luján, in the crypt of the Presidential residence in Olivos. Héctor Ponzo, the chaplain of the Horse Guard regiment, prays again for the soul of the deceased. María Estela Martinez de Perón, José López Rega & José Campano are present. The coffin has been covered by an Argentine flag crossed with a black stripe:

Revista Gente, 21 nov 1974, "Los restos de Eva Perón están en Argentina"

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378. where is eva perón? ◊

Eva Perón, Recoleta Cemetery

A question asked several times throughout the past 50 years 🙂 With no signage to mark the way, visitors only have a few options to find the tomb of Eva Perón: use our PDF guidebook (yes, shameless self-promotion), buy a map from the women at the entrance gate, ask one of the caretakers… or take notes from this video:

Oddly enough, the Duarte family vault was once marked but at least not in last nine years. This abandoned sign was previously found by the women’s restroom:

Evita sign, Recoleta Cemetery

Of course, Eva is easier to find on her birthday (07 May) or on the day she passed away (26 July)… just look for all the flowers!

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377. adolfo alsina ◊

Adolfo Alsina, Recoleta Cemetery

Vice-President under Sarmiento then later Minister of War under Avellaneda, Adolfo Alsina was born in Buenos Aires in 1829… son of politician Valentín Alsina. Although father & son were supposedly of very different temperament & character, both participated significantly in national politics.

Adolfo fought in early conflicts after independence from Spain, lived in exile for some time in Montevideo but eventually occupied important positions in Congress & became the Governor of Buenos Aires.

But as Minister of War, Adolfo left his mark. He built 109 lookout points —all connected by telegraph to major forts— deep inside what was at that time indigenous territory. Known as the Zanja de Alsina, the lookout points were defended by a 374 km trench which was 2 meters deep & 3 meters wide. Constructed to gain access to fertile land & eliminate the Mapuche tribe, Alsina’s offensive/defensive system proved vital to the success of the Conquest of the Desert lead by Julio Argentino Roca.

Zanja de Alsina map, Museo de la Patagonia

The crypt of Adolfo reminds visitors of his pivotal role… look who flees on the right relief panel & who calmly takes control on the right. No one can claim Recoleta Cemetery to be PC:

Adolfo Alsina, Recoleta Cemetery

Adolfo Alsina, Recoleta Cemetery

Even Roca left a wordy plaque to Alsina:

Adolfo Alsina, Recoleta Cemetery

Update (Nov 2021): Reliefs were executed by Basque sculptor Lorenzo Fernández de Viana who worked in Argentina from 1912 to 1916.

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375. cuidadores

Vista, Recoleta Cemetery

In spite of its grandeur, Recoleta Cemetery is not very large. It is only as big as four city blocks, but more than 4,700 tombs & mausoleums can be found among its narrow walkways. Smaller plots have only one coffin while larger ones can have more than 50. To maintain them all —checking drainage pipes, fixing floors, trimming trees & an endless list of other chores— there are some 65 caretakers… very nice people, passionate about the cemetery & who in several occasions act as guides for the unavoidable tourist who wants to know the quickest way to the tomb of Eva Perón.

A simple bit of math reveals that each caretaker has the responsiblity to maintain about 70 tombs, large or small.  Not all of those tombs are cleaned or cared for since some families do not pay the corresponding maintenance fee —according to the official Buenos Aires city government website currently 48 pesos or about US$ 12.50 per square meter. Tombs not paid for are neglected by caretakers. The reason, according to one of the cemetery workers, is simple: each caretaker receives as their salary a percentage of what the tomb owner pays to the city government. And in many cases, due to the number of mausoleums in any particular sector which pay no taxes, the money provided to caretakers per month is very little… less than 500 pesos or US$ 130 at the current exchange rate.

Tools of the trade, Recoleta Cemetery

Some of the biggest vaults, like that of the Familia Leloir, also pay the aguinaldo (a year-end bonus equivalent to one month’s salary) to the city which ends up going to the caretaker. In addition, some families give extra cash directly to the caretaker to ensure better maintenance… a tip of sorts.

Caretakers appear everywhere in the cemetery, visible at any time of day. They are easily recognized by their gray workclothes & their characteristic way of referring to the cemetery:  the capacity of a vault is measured in “beds,” not coffins, & the dead who occupy them are “tenants.”

What unites them, as mentioned in the beginning of this post, is their love for Recoleta Cemetery. And their dream, their personal utopia, might just be reaching the status of the most famous caretaker of them all: David Alleno, the only cemetery worker who is buried there.

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