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Category: Current events

338. progress for alfonsín

Raúl Alfonsín, Recoleta Cemetery

Over the past four months, a lot of progress has been made for the future burial spot of former President Raúl Alfonsín. Engravings are finished as well as a plaque in place quoting one of Alfonsín’s most famous speeches. Although the stained glass dome is not of high quality, at least it adds a bit of color:

Raúl Alfonsín, Recoleta Cemetery

No official word as to when the transfer will take place. At least barricades have been removed from the UCR Pantheon where Alfonsín is currently buried, & everyone can now get a look at his casket:

UCR Pantheon - Alfonsín, Recoleta Cemetery

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337. staircase destruction

As reported by every other blog concerned with saving the architectural heritage of Buenos Aires, the entrance gate staircase for Recoleta Cemetery is currently being demolished. Just like that. No one could have foreseen that repavement of the sidewalk adjacent to the cemetery could have generated such a blatant disregard for the city’s  biggest tourist attraction.

The need for some sort of change of the staircase comes from poor planning. By using thicker, pre-fabricated sidewalk tiles, the new sidewalk level is higher than the original & exceeds the base of the staircase:

Entrance gate destruction, Recoleta Cemeter

As reported by Sergio Kiernan in a mocking article appearing in Página/12’s architecture supplement m2, workers began breaking up the Carrara marble staircase with hammers before Teresa de Anchorena (member of both city & national heritage organizations) found out about the destruction on May 20th. She contacted Jorge Sábato—city Subsecretary for Urban Projects, Architecture & Infrastructure—reminding him of the mistake being made. According to Kiernan, Sábato did not respond to Anchorena’s communiqué. It was too late… several local residents had already taken pieces of staircase marble home with them as souvenirs.

Sábato’s next-in-command Miguel Ortemberg sent a letter six days later to the National Commission of Museums, Monuments & Historical Places requesting advice on how to modify the cemetery’s staircase after the damage had already been done:

Ortemberg letter

Days passed while Sábato & Ortemberg submitted a variety of documents to the city legislature claiming that there would be drainage problems given the new sidewalk level. Only one solution existed & the marble staircase would be removed & stored for any future solution or modification. All lies. Another problem they cited was the lack of a permanent disability ramp for cemetery access. Adding insult to injury, both Sábato & Ortemberg are degree-holding architects. Their solution was destruction over preservation.

Entrance gate, Recoleta Cemetery

With officials like Sábato & Ortemberg in charge, there is little question why so much destruction of the city’s architectural heritage  has happened in recent years. In spite of being listed as a National Historic Monument in 2007, the cemetery entrance gate has lost an irreplaceable part of its foundation & only serves to demonstrate the ineffectiveness of local & national government. At the very least, Sábato & Ortemberg should be removed from their posts & fined for the cost of replacing the staircase… an exorbitant amount given that 5 cm thick pieces of Carrara marble are rarely found these days.

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Update (25 Jan 2010): Six months of inaction & the cemetery entrance remains a construction site. After completion of the ramp, the makeshift barricades pictured above remained in place for several months. Only recently has an attempt been made to hide from plain sight the destruction of the staircase. A scaled photograph of the column bases currently wraps around half the entrance gate until city authorities decide what to do:

Entrance gate, Recoleta Cemetery

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331. extended break

Apologies to regular readers for the lack of posts lately. I can’t remember ever being this busy… ok, maybe in my senior year of high school, but that was a long time ago 🙂

Anyway, I’m off to Spain in a few hours & won’t be back in Buenos Aires until July, so this blog will take an extended break until then. It will definitely resume in two months time. There’s too much juicy material waiting to be published.

I had hoped to finish a self-guided PDF tour of Recoleta Cemetery by the end of March, but there has been little time for me to work on the design or edit text. It was a priority when I moved back to Buenos Aires in February, then all hell broke loose. When will it be complete? Good question. As soon as it is, I’ll let everyone know.

See you in July!

Good newsThe PDF is now finished!

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326. death of a president, day 4

Service entrance, Recoleta Cemetery

After the burial & the three official days of mourning were complete, Recoleta Cemetery once again opened to the public. A steady stream of people found their way to the back wall to pay their last respects:

Panteón UCR, Recoleta Cemetery

Panteón UCR, Recoleta Cemetery

However the UCR Pantheon will only be a temporary resting place for Alfonsín. His personal tomb has been under construction for some time, but unfortunately workers were unable to finish before he passed away. As reported by Clarín, no one is sure when the tomb will be complete or when transfer of the body will take place. The large, modern tomb occupies the space of several former smaller vaults & currently has no door:

Raúl Alfonsín, Recoleta Cemetery

Raúl Alfonsín, Recoleta Cemetery

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325. death of a president, day 3

After ending the wake around 10:00, a mass for Alfonsín was said by his cousin, Archbishop José María Arancedo, on the steps of the National Congress:

Misa para Alfonsín, Congreso Nacional, Buenos Aires

Misa para Alfonsín, Congreso Nacional, Buenos Aires

Accompanied by the mounted Honor Guard, the casket moved slowly up Avenida Callao toward Recoleta Cemetery. Barricades disappeared by the time the casket reached Avenida Corrientes, & several hundred people followed the funeral procession:

Entierro de Alfonsín, Callao & Corrientes

Entierro de Alfonsín, Callao & Corrientes

Entierro de Alfonsín, Callao & Corrientes

Entierro de Alfonsín, Callao & Corrientes

Meanwhile, everything was under control at Recoleta Cemetery, but somehow a few people had made it past the Policia Federal. Crowds of eventually three to four people deep waited for the procession to arrive at the intersection with Guido:

Entierro de Alfonsín, Recoleta Cemetery

Entierro de Alfonsín, Avenida Callao

Entierro de Alfonsín, Avenida Callao

The motorcycle brigade announced Alfonsín’s arrival, blaring their sirens & making sure the way was clear:

Entierro de Alfonsín, Avenida Callao

Then the Horse Guard came into sight:

Entierro de Alfonsín, Avenida Callao

Entierro de Alfonsín, Avenida Callao

So many people accompanied the casket at this point (friends, family, followers, & what seemed like hundreds of press photographers), that it was difficult to see. The pics didn’t turn out very well, & at one point I stopped trying to capture a good shot in order to experience what was going on around me.

Trying to get as close to the entrance gate as possible, we went around Vicente López & found ourselves face to face with the Horse Guard. The horses were surprisingly calm given the amount of activity around them:

Entierro de Alfonsín, Recoleta Cemetery

Then we realized that the casket was still making its way to the cemetery. Everyone wanted a photo; everyone wanted one last look at Alfonsín. Police cars, horses & human barricades began to clear a path for the casket to keep moving. In the process, I was separated from Jeff… the police really had no idea what they were doing as throngs of people were pushed around & for several minutes the procession was stuck. At least I got a better look at the casket & a few decent pics:

Entierro de Alfonsín, Recoleta Cemetery

Entierro de Alfonsín, Recoleta Cemetery

Entierro de Alfonsín, Recoleta Cemetery

Unable to find Jeff, I opted to return home & see the rest on tv. There was little chance of entering the cemetery given the general confusion. Some family members didn’t even make it inside before the gate was shut. Two hours & eight eulogies later, the casket was finally taken into the crypt… not an easy task since the staircase has about a 60º angle! The Granaderos had to let the cemetery caretakers do their job:

Entierro de Alfonsín, Recoleta Cemetery

Entierro de Alfonsín, Recoleta Cemetery

Entierro de Alfonsín, Recoleta Cemetery

Entierro de Alfonsín, Recoleta Cemetery

Photo credits: 1-5 by Marcelo Metayer / 6 + 18-20 by EFE / 7-17 by Robert Wright.

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