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Category: Art + Architecture

449. francisco salamone

Francisco Salamone, Azul, cementerio

Much remains unknown about the life of Francisco Salamone, including his birthplace. Some authors say he was born in Italy while other claim Buenos Aires as his hometown. Uncertainty even carries over to Salamone’s large body of work, scattered throughout Argentina. Fans are discovering more & more of his buildings, but here’s what we know for sure…

After studying architecture & engineering at several different universities in Argentina, Salamone received his degree in 1917. Through his friendship with Manuel Fresco, governor of the Province of Buenos Aires, he got a big break. Hired to design & modernize public works throughout the province, Salamone constructed over 60 buildings in his trademark style between 1936 & 1940.

Francisco Salamone, Azul, Matadero

Breaking through the flat grasslands of La Pampa, Salamone designed towering white structures which could be seen easily from a distance. Governor Fresco liked Mussolini—a fairly common trait in Italian descendants in Argentina in those days—and gave Salamone free reign to build something that would fit in with modern, Fascist design. The end product was futuristic, something completely unexpected in small towns seemingly in the middle of nowhere.

Francisco Salamone, Coronel Pringles, Municipalidad

Francisco Salamone, Coronel Pringles, Municipalidad

Salamone’s works can be divided into general categories: town halls, cemeteries & slaughterhouses. He designed other buildings as well, but those three comprised the bulk of his work. He even worked on smaller projects like benches & light fixtures for plazas.

Francisco Salamone, cementerio, Saldungaray

Francisco Salamone, cementerio, Laprida

Francisco Salamone, cementerio, Balcarce

Many have now fallen into disuse, but the rise of tourism in Argentina over the last ten years as well as an increased focus on the nation’s architectural heritage has made Salamone popular once again. Restoration projects have begun & weekend excursions go to towns that are difficult to connect using public transportation alone.

Mapa de obras de Francisco Salamone

Salamone passed away in 1959 & was originally buried in Recoleta Cemetery. An obituary newspaper column announced the following:

Francisco Salamone, obituary

Unfortunately, architecture buffs can no longer pay their respects in Recoleta Cemetery. After spending five years in the Lippo mausoleum, Salamone’s casket was transferred in 1964 to the López Vida family vault. But that wasn’t the end of his journey. We also discovered that he was taken to Jardín de Paz in Pilar in 1992 thanks to Rick Caba. Motives for moving around are still unknown, but all three resting places are shown below:

Buenos Aires, Recoleta Cemetery, Lippo

Buenos Aires, Recoleta Cemetery, López Vida

Salamone lápida

Salamone has been included in AfterLife due to his importance in national architecture + as one more example of a temporary Recoleta Cemetery burial.

There are a variety of online sources about the architecture of Salamone (in Spanish). With the exception of Rick Caba’s tombstone photo (used with permission), all pics are from Marcelo Metayer who administers the architect’s Flickr groupAndrés Tórtola filmed two travel documentaries about Salamone, & Edward Shaw talks about returning to the works of Salamone ten years after his first visit.

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444. eugenio cardini

Recoleta Cemetery, Buenos Aires, Eugenio Cardini, Julián García Núñez

Eugenio Cardini was an immigrant from Piemonte, Italy who arrived in Buenos Aires around 1860. He eventually founded a factory which produced iron bedframes. Other types of furniture were made as well, & his market was mainly other immigrants… those with less resources, not the upper class. In 1898, some 2,000 bedframes per month were produced! The source for this info is the online Diccionario Biográfico Italo-Argentino compiled by the Asociación Dante Alighieri in Buenos Aires.

Recoleta Cemetery, Buenos Aires, Eugenio Cardini, Julián García Núñez

The plaque mentions the “establishment” founded by Cardini & confirms his date of death as 08 Jan 1910:

Recoleta Cemetery, Buenos Aires, Eugenio Cardini, Julián García Núñez

Just as interesting, Art Nouveau architect Julián García Núñez designed this vault. While not as elaborate as some of his apartment buildings, it represents one of the few constructions in Recoleta Cemetery with elements of modernisme… the Catalán take on Art Nouveau. García Núñez also built the family’s vacation home in Mar del Plata, unfortunately demolished today. Cardini faces boxer Luis Ángel Firpo & unfortunately is often overlooked.

Update (10 Dec 2012): The great-granddaughter of Cardini discovered this post & provided a bit more info (see comments below). Cardini liked photography so much that he purchased a Lumière camera during a trip to France. A brief clip of Plaza de Mayo—that’s the Cabildo in the background—from 1902 is short but very sweet. Thanks, Louise!!

Like Art Nouveau? Learn about the architects of the era, their individual styles & what makes Art Nouveau in Buenos Aires so unique with a 33-page guide from our sister site, Endless Mile.

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442. herlitzka

Recoleta Cemetery, Buenos Aires, Herlitzka

In spite of being on a major walkway, this discrete, Neo-Byzantine mausoleum is easy to dismiss… perhaps because there is no way to peer inside. The surrounding tombs capture our attention quicker. Most people move on, unaware of the beauty inside.

Mauro Herlitzka was one of many Italian professionals who made the move to Argentina at the end of the 19th century. Born in Trieste in 1871, he graduated from the University of Turin with a specialty in industrial/electrical engineering—a new & promising field at the time. Herlitzka then moved to Germany to work for Siemens & AEG (Allgemeine Elektricitäts-Gesellschaft), constructing a number of large electrical plants in Europe.

Recoleta Cemetery, Buenos Aires, Herlitzka

Arriving in Buenos Aires in 1897 as a rep for AEG, Herlitzka saw that the time was right to electrify Argentina. Although not the first electric company in the city, the CATE (Compañía Alemana Transatlántica de Electricidad, logo below) soon became the major provider… directed by Herlitzka. They negotiated a 50-year contract with the Buenos Aires city government & built an enormous complex in Dock Sud to provide for increased demand.

CATE logo

Herlitzka remained in Argentina for the rest of his life & became one of the country’s great industrial giants. Besides electricity, he developed telephone & telegraph lines for most of Argentina. Much of Herlitzka’s infrastructure survives today even though companies & holdings have changed hands several times since then. He passed away in 1960.

Herlitzka’s wealth funded the construction of this family vault & no expense was spared… probably why it isn’t openly visible to visitors. But if you’re feeling adventurous, there’s a way to get a look. Make sure no one is watching—you didn’t hear this from me—and blindly take some photographs through the hole above the door. It’s quite a reach, so don’t drop your camera inside!!! Or just look at thespectacular interior here:

Recoleta Cemetery, Buenos Aires, Herlitzka

Recoleta Cemetery, Buenos Aires, Herlitzka

The glass is supposedly from Murano & the tiles are gold leaf. No way to confirm that these days. But when the sun enters either in early morning or late afternoon, the interior is bathed in golden light. Definitely one of the most heavenly in the entire cemetery.

Recoleta Cemetery, Buenos Aires, Herlitzka

For more on the history of electricity in Buenos Aires from the perspective of the CATE’s largest competitor—the CIAE—I have researched & written a series of 11 posts on my other blog, Endless Mile.

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425. miguel bencich

Recoleta Cemetery, Buenos Aires, Miguel Bencich

Born in Trieste, Italy in 1888, Miguel Bencich already had experience in the construction business by the time he immigrated to Argentina in 1909. His brother, Massimiliano, arrived Buenos Aires the following year. Together they began the well-known construction company, Bencich Hermanos, in 1915.

Recoleta Cemetery, Buenos Aires, Miguel Bencich

The sheer amount of real estate developed by these brothers is staggering. One building even bears Miguel’s name… its large domes easily stand out along Diagonal Norte in downtown Buenos Aires:

Buenos Aires, Diagonal Norte, Edificio Miguel Bencich

Since the majority of tombs in Recoleta Cemetery are for families & not individuals, it seems odd that both Bencich brothers are not buried together. Miguel passed away first in 1965, then Massimiliano followed in 1972. Latin phrasing plus the company initials on Massimiliano’s tomb implies they would remain together for eternity. How Miguel became separated from his brother is a mystery:

Recoleta Cemetery, Buenos Aires, Miguel Bencich

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