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Category: Art + Architecture

353. familia del valle

Familia del Valle, Recoleta Cemetery

Although neglected today, the Familia del Valle tomb is the final resting place of one of Argentina’s most important sculptors 100 years ago, Victor de Pol. He’s here because in 1910 de Pol married Asimilda del Valle… great-niece of politician Aristóbulo del Valle.

Victor de Pol, Recoleta Cemetery

Born in Venice in 1865, Victor de Pol emigrated to Argentina in 1887 at the age of 22. Having already studied art in his home town, Florence & Rome, de Pol won several awards & was recommended personally by his last teacher, Giulio Monteverde… responsible for the crucifixion statue in the cemetery chapel & professor to Dolores “Lola” Mora.

The city of La Plata —newly founded capital of the Provincia de Buenos Aires— hired de Pol to add a little beauty to Pedro Benoit‘s elegant urban design. De Pol is responsible for figures on the Palacio Legislativo, a few reliefs, sculptures of the indigenous people held captive in the Natural History museum (!), busts of 12 important scientists & the saber-toothed tigers guarding the museum entrance:

Museo, La Plata

Museo, La Plata

Museo, La Plata

While President Sarmiento was still alive, de Pol had been invited to sculpt a bust —his official image of sorts. So when Sarmiento died in 1888, de Pol was also commissioned to design his tomb in Recoleta Cemetery, topped with a condor:

Domingo Faustino Sarmiento, Recoleta Cemetery

De Pol returned to Buenos Aires after a five-year stay in Europe & opened a studio in what is now known as Galerías Pacífico. From there he designed works to be placed over the entire nation as well as the fantastic tomb of Archbishop León Federico Aneiros, kneeling in prayer in the Catedral Metropolitana:

Catedral Metropolitana, Buenos Aires

Catedral Metropolitana, Buenos Aires

Victor de Pol’s most important work is admired by thousands of people daily, the quadriga placed top & center on the National Congress. Traditionally used by Roman generals when entering a conquered city, the horse-drawn carriage takes on new meaning as Liberty holds the reins. It’s a symbol found everywhere from the Arc de Triomphe to Brandenburg Gate… of course, Buenos Aires needed its own:

Congreso Nacional, Buenos Aires

Museo de La Plata photos courtesy of Marcelo Metayer.

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345. neogothic

NeoGothic, Recoleta Cemetery

Neo-Gothic or Gothic Revival became popular in Buenos Aires during the early & mid-1800’s. Gothic buildings date from the 12th to 15th century, but period styles were reproduced several centuries later… a bit of nostalgia for the past. Characteristics include tall steeples, fancy pinnacles, & pointed arches. Unfortunately plot limitations in Recoleta Cemetery do not allow for flying buttresses. No matter, searching for Neo-Gothic mausoleums makes an excellent photo scavenger hunt:

NeoGothic, Recoleta Cemetery

NeoGothic, Recoleta Cemetery

NeoGothic, Recoleta Cemetery

NeoGothic, Recoleta Cemetery

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343. ida ◊

Ida, Recoleta Cemetery

Ida rarely gets a visitor since she shares the same row as Eva Perón… nothing like being upstaged by the cemetery’s most well-known resident. Perhaps due to Ida’s proximity to Evita, an urban legend developed around her death based on the evocative statue of a young woman reaching for a fallen rose.

Unable to confirm any factual evidence, most guides claim Ida fell to death from an upper story balcony… hence the statue. Seems like someone had an overactive imagination, but the best part about this mausoleum is that it contains some of the most overlooked Art Nouveau in Recoleta Cemetery.

The door is difficult to appreciate given the narrow width of sidewalk in front but is quite an impressive work of art:

Ida, Recoleta Cemetery

Interior photos are difficult due to glass reflections & low light levels, but peeking inside is easy. The mosaics & carved marble tomb shouldn’t be missed:

Ida, Recoleta Cemetery

Ida, Recoleta Cemetery

After seeing Eva Perón, wander toward the wall instead of returning to the main walkway. Ida is on the right-hand side waiting for some attention too.

Like Art Nouveau? Learn about the architects of the era, their individual styles & what makes Art Nouveau in Buenos Aires so unique with a 33-page guide from our sister site, Endless Mile.

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342. familia ramos

Familia Ramos, Recoleta Cemetery

Not a bad shot considering how difficult it was to take. The Ramos family likes their privacy so mausoleum doors are covered with closed curtains. But a small glass panel above the doors allows for an arm-stretching, blind shot & reveals this beautiful stained glass image of the Immaculate Conception.

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341. baby morra ◊

Carlos Morra, Recoleta Cemetery

Young deaths are tragic to everyone, but it must be devastating to living parents. Inés Lucía Morra Victorica—known to her family as Baby—passed away in Paris at the age of 21, & her parents left no doubt about their sentiments. Below is the original inscription in Italian followed by a translation into English:

Raro esempio di grazia di bellezza di bonta, illuminando col sorriso la sventura, lenendo colla pietá il dolore. Baby Morra seppe con le doti eccelse della mente e del cuore vincere l’alta distinzione di un nome illustre. I genitori qui preceduti straziati inconsolabili seppellirono con essa il cuore, la pace, l’energia, la speme.

Rare example of grace, of beauty, of kindness, illuminating misfortune with a smile, relieving pain with pity. Baby Morra knew with her generous heart & mind how to overcome the distinction of an upper-class name. The parents here with inconsolable surrender bury with her emotions, peace, energy, hope.

The dedication gives some hint to Baby Morra’s family background & her parents eventually joined her in the same mausoleum. Carlos Morra was the Marquis of Monterocchetta, born in Benevento, Italy in 1854. He trained to be a military engineer & arrived in Argentina during initial waves of immigration in 1881. Early collaboration with French immigrant architect Norberto Maillart allowed him to work on the centennial expo in Plaza San Martín in Buenos Aires. His military background was also put to good use by the Argentine government with several installations designed by Morra.

Carlos Morra, Recoleta Cemetery

Carlos Morra, Recoleta Cemetery

But the character of his work shifted from military to civic over time. Morra built the Palace Hotel on Avenida Alem for Nicolás Mihanovich in 1905, directly across the street from where the Mihanovich company headquarters would be located in 1912:

Palace Hotel, Buenos Aires

After designing several houses, Morra was appointed head architect for the Nacional Education Council (Consejo Nacional de Educación). A series of schools still in use today were built by Morra & left a distinct mark on Buenos Aires. Probably his most recognized school is that of Presidente Roca, located in a prime spot on Plaza Lavalle just across the street from the Teatro Colón:

Escuela Presidente Roca, Plaza Lavalle

Another landmark building designed by Morra was projected to be headquarters for the National Lottery but instead became the National Library:

ex-Biblioteca Nacional, Buenos Aires

Morra continued to win recognition throughout his lifetime from both Argentina & Italy, was elected President of the Sociedad Central de Arquitectos several times, & continued to design buildings until his death in 1926. Also of interest, Morra has another construction in Recoleta Cemetery… a tomb for the Cascallares de Paz family:

Recoleta Cemetery, Cascallares de Paz, Carlos Morra

Recoleta Cemetery, Michaela Cascallares de Paz, Carlos Morra

For further information about Carlos Morra’s contributions to Argentine architecture, consult Alejandro Machado’s blog: Arquitectos Italianos en Buenos Aires (in Spanish).

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