Category: History

Published in 1917, Illustrated Descriptive Argentina might be perhaps the most literal book title ever conceived. But as explained in the foreward, Henry Stephens considers this the best way to describe Argentina:

An oracular or written description gives a person one impression; illustrations give a different one; but neither alone can convey to the mind a true idea of a place or an object such as can be imbued by the individual who read and studies a descriptive illustration. It is with this idea, therefore, that I have compiled these illustrations, and from a few words to a few paragraphs on each subject have produced “Illustrated Descriptive Argentina,” which I think is the only work of its kind.

Of course Dr. Stephens couldn’t omit Recoleta Cemetery, so let’s get his opinion:

While basic, his description is more or less accurate. But Dr. Stephens should have had access to our guidebook that advises never, ever to visit during midday… as for the “gruesome” quality of the cemetery, nothing could be further from the truth. Looks absolutely peaceful:

But he does appreciate the quality of art inside:

Apparently Dr. Stephens thought each mausoleum had been constructed for a single person instead of for use for the entire family in perpetuity. Still, his contribution is incredibly valuable to give us a snapshot of what Recoleta Cemetery looked like in the early 1900s… long before the city government charged an entrance fee or before celebrities crawled over crypts. He took the majority of photographs himself & gives credit when they’ve been outsourced.

Marcelo found a scanned PDF copy of this book on the Internet Archive. Please consider donating to them in order to ensure worldwide access to their enormous digital vault of information.

Visitors to Recoleta Cemetery often ask questions at each end of the spectrum. Who was the first person buried there? Early records list two on opening day: Juan Benito (a child of freed slaves) & María Dolores Maciel. Who was the last? Let’s check the newspapers! How much does the most expensive mausoleum cost? No way to know for certain since each is private property. What is the oldest tomb still standing? Hmmmm… that’s tricky. Here’s our best guess.

Recoleta Cemetery looked very different from its current appearance when it first opened in 1822. As the cemetery grew in status, its layout changed from grassy plots with simple tombstones to one of ornate mausoleums & vaults. Photos from the Witcomb Collection (below) show this process in progress around 1890, & a few ordinary tombstones even survive today.

But with resale & modifications occuring over almost 200 years, few records are kept about the constructions on each plot. After all, each is private property so the cemetery has no obligation to record that kind of information. Many sources cite Remedios de Escalada —wife of founding father General José de San Martín— as having the oldest remaining plot since she passed away in 1823. However, a little exploration reveals another grave hidden in a corner not far from the entrance gate:

Dª Romana Josefa
López de Anchorena
y
sus cuatros nietas
parbulas. Romana.
Nicolasa. Estanislana.
y
Martina Anchorena.
Falleció la primera
de 30 de octubre
de 1822.
D.P.H.M.N.A.

The Anchorena family dates back to Argentina’s days under Spanish rule. Born in Pamplona, Juan Esteban de Anchorena arrived in Buenos Aires in 1768. He married Romana Josefa de Anaya, moved up in social rank & began buying land. By the early 20th century, the Anchorena name became synonymous with big money & power, coining a popular phrase: “wealthier than an Anchorena.” They even managed to marry into European royalty, but it all started with Romana Josefa who was buried here in 1822… the same year Recoleta Cemetery opened.

While a few other relatives are buried along with Romana Josefa, the Anchorenas never had a single, dedicated family mausoleum. Other Anchorena descendants can be found scattered throughout Recoleta Cemetery, but the honor of oldest mausoleum goes to the Bustillo family (1823).

That’s our best guess for now… until other evidence comes along!

Dates of important historical events can be difficult to put into context, as are the lives of everyone profiled in this blog… especially when names are foreign & important periods are mentioned only in passing. Covering the first 200 years, this time line of Argentina’s history should enhance your visit to Recoleta Cemetery. Broad periods are listed above while specific events are mentioned below. Although not intended to be 100% comprehensive, we’ll likely add events from time to time.

If you purchase a PDF guide, the time line comes included as an appendix on the last page. But if you are just wandering on your own, the full version of the time line is available by clicking on the image above… free of charge. Please do not use this time line for commercial purposes or for derivative works.