The tomb of Rufina Cambacérès underwent restoration in July 2008. She looks even more attractive than before now that the scaffolding has been removed.
Leave a CommentDocumenting Recoleta Cemetery in Buenos Aires since 2007
Author: Robert
Neo-Gothic or Gothic Revival became popular in Buenos Aires during the early & mid-1800’s. Gothic buildings date from the 12th to 15th century, but period styles were reproduced several centuries later… a bit of nostalgia for the past. Characteristics include tall steeples, fancy pinnacles, & pointed arches. Unfortunately plot limitations in Recoleta Cemetery do not allow for flying buttresses. No matter, searching for Neo-Gothic mausoleums makes an excellent photo scavenger hunt:
Born in what would become Uruguay in 1808, Marcos Sastre was one of those rare figures in literary history who made contributions by supporting the arts instead of being a prolific writer. In 1835 his bookstore —the Librería Argentina— transformed into the Salón Literario & the nation’s first public library. Sastre’s 1,000 book collection could be consulted by anyone who registered & soon became a meeting point for students, the elite & anyone with political aspirations.
The most important topic of the time was national organization. Argentina had recently separated from Spain & fought difficult internal & foreign battles to define the nation. Sastre & his colleagues were between 20 to 30 years old & included recognized names like Esteban Etcheverria, Juan Bautista Alberdi, José Marmol, Carlos Tejedor, Florencio Varela, Juan María Gutiérrez & Miguel Cané. Fortunately this center for debate can still be visited —it continues to operate as a bookstore— one block from Plaza de Mayo at Adolfo Alsina & Bolívar:
Spirits were high in those days with so much to be accomplished, but consensus proved impossible to obtain. Etcheverria became frustrated at the lack of direction & scarce original literature he thought necessary to define the Argentine experience 200 years ago. His 1837 epic poem “La Cautiva” highlighted the classic Argentine struggle of civilization vs. barbary. Alberdi & Sastre opposed the group when they saw a viable alternative in Juan Manuel de Rosas:
El refrena las pasiones, mientras las virtudes se fortifican, y adquieren prepondernacia sobre los vicios. La paz y el orden son los grandes bienes de su gobierno.
He restrains passions, while virtues grow stronger & gain prominence over vices. Peace & order are the greatest gifts of his government.
If only that were true. Rosas soon showed his true colors—power hungry & a desire for complete control. In 1838, the magazine “Moda” published by Sastre was censured by the government & the Salón Literario was forced to close. Persecuted by Rosas, Sastre left the city to live in the Tigre Delta where he finished his own book, “El Tempe Argentino,” a Darwin-esque natural history text accompanied by illustrations & surprisingly modern commentary about environmental policies & conservation.
Sastre later became known for developing a system to teach children how to read, used in Argentine primary school for decades. Travelling throughout the country, his status as an educator allowed his books to be widely distributed. Sastre died in the town of Belgrano in 1887 before it was incorporated into Buenos Aires. A simple plaque marks the spot where he passed away, now a series of Neocolonial houses built by Martín Noel. Supposedly buried in a local cemetery, Sastre’s remains were later transferred to Recoleta Cemetery… at least there’s some agreement about the day he died if not the year:
Ida rarely gets a visitor since she shares the same row as Eva Perón… nothing like being upstaged by the cemetery’s most well-known resident. Perhaps due to Ida’s proximity to Evita, an urban legend developed around her death based on the evocative statue of a young woman reaching for a fallen rose.
Unable to confirm any factual evidence, most guides claim Ida fell to death from an upper story balcony… hence the statue. Seems like someone had an overactive imagination, but the best part about this mausoleum is that it contains some of the most overlooked Art Nouveau in Recoleta Cemetery.
The door is difficult to appreciate given the narrow width of sidewalk in front but is quite an impressive work of art:
Interior photos are difficult due to glass reflections & low light levels, but peeking inside is easy. The mosaics & carved marble tomb shouldn’t be missed:
After seeing Eva Perón, wander toward the wall instead of returning to the main walkway. Ida is on the right-hand side waiting for some attention too.
Like Art Nouveau? Learn about the architects of the era, their individual styles & what makes Art Nouveau in Buenos Aires so unique with a 33-page guide from our sister site, Endless Mile.
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Not a bad shot considering how difficult it was to take. The Ramos family likes their privacy so mausoleum doors are covered with closed curtains. But a small glass panel above the doors allows for an arm-stretching, blind shot & reveals this beautiful stained glass image of the Immaculate Conception.
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