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Author: Robert

430. julio argentino roca ◊

Recoleta Cemetery, Buenos Aires, Julio Argentino Roca

Few figures in Argentine history have been as influential or as controversial. Everyone seems to have an opinion about Julio Argentino Roca.

Born in 1843 in Tucumán, his military career began at an early age. Roca enlisted when only 15 years old & fought in several decisive battles during the years of national organization. Under the presidency of Bartolomé Mitre, Roca fought in the War of the Triple Alliance & later proved his loyalty to the nation during an attempted coup. Thanks to this action, President Avellaneda promoted Roca to General in his early 30s. He also appointed Roca as his Minister of War after the death of Adolfo Alsina. What a quick rise to power.

Recoleta Cemetery, Buenos Aires, Julio Argentino Roca

Roca fought one final battle before retiring his sword. Alsina had made scant progress in controlling the indigenous population, & the issue demanded attention. Roca’s solution was to kill as many as possible while the rest were taken captive. Roca effectively conquered the desert. It was a move that made later generations dislike Roca as well as launched him into national politics. He became the next President, having expanded national territory & resolving a “problem” which had plagued Argentina for decades. Roca’s monument in downtown Buenos Aires is often covered with unflattering graffiti & red paint to symbolize the blood spilled:

Buenos Aires, Monserrat, Diagonal Sur, Monumento a Roca

Once in office, Roca settled another important issue: Buenos Aires became the official capital of Argentina. And not to leave controversy behind, Roca promoted adoption of a series of laws to take several functions out of the hands of the Catholic church. With Sarmiento as Director of the National Board of Education, primary school became free & public, no longer dependent on the church. Acceptance of marriage by civil service also caused some conflict with Rome. In economics, Roca promoted the export of raw materials & large amounts of foreign investment.

Recoleta Cemetery, Buenos Aires, Julio Argentino Roca

After Roca’s term ended in 1886, he had no desire to retire. Serving several terms as Senator, Roca became one of the key figures behind the scenes during the 1890 Revolution. Always maintaining important connections & positions of power, Roca attained the presidency for a second term in 1898. During this time, Minister of War Pablo Riccheri instituted obligatory military service & Navy Minister Comodoro Rivadavia helped Roca negotiate peace with Chile over border disputes in 1902. That same year, Luis María Drago published his influential doctrine while serving as Minister of Foreign Relations.

Roca’s later years are complex & raise quite a few questions. Serving as ambassador to Brazil for President Sáenz Peña, Roca spent much time away from Argentina. He was oddly absent from centennial celebrations in 1910. In 1914 while on one of his estates in Córdoba province, Roca passed away suddenly after a coughing fit at the age of 71.

The tomb was declared a National Historic Monument in 1946. There is no doubt that Roca made some of the most important decisions in Argentina’s history, although by what some consider questionable methods. But his legacy can’t be escaped—Roca’s Conquest of the Desert decorates the reverse side of the old 100 peso bill!

100 peso note, Roca

Interior photo courtesy of Mike De Ghetto. Thanks!

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428. dorrego-ortiz basualdo ◊

Recoleta Cemetery, Buenos Aires, Dorrego-Ortiz Basualdo

So big that it’s almost impossible to photograph… now that’s a final resting place. Intermarried, wealthy landowners built one of the largest mausoleums in the cemetery; very fitting since their former residence is now the French Embassy:

Buenos Aires, Palacio Dorrego-Ortiz Basualdo, Embajada de Francia

Two major elements stand out among the decoration, a phrase in Latin & the large sculpture group at eye level. “O crux ave spes unica” is the first verse of a 6th century Roman hymn & translates to: O hail the cross, our only hope.

The sculpture depicts the Parable of the Ten Virgins as told in Matthew 25: ten women diligently wait for the arrival a bridegroom to celebrate his marriage. He is unexpectedly delayed & half the women’s lamps ran out of oil. Five left to search for more oil, but the remaining five had brought extra… note the large jar to the left of the lamp. When the groom finally arrived, he excluded the five who had not come prepared to wait.

Recoleta Cemetery, Buenos Aires, Dorrego-Ortiz Basualdo

The story is a rather roundabout way of saying that Christ’s second coming will likely be delayed, & the faithful must always be ready. When the time arrives, there will be no second chance. Don’t miss the stained glass window on the reverse side or the luxurious interior, worthy of any church in town.

Recoleta Cemetery, Buenos Aires, Dorrego-Ortiz Basualdo

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427. aramburu ◊

Recoleta Cemetery, Buenos Aires, Aramburu

Designed by architect Alejandro Bustillo, the crypt of Pedro Aramburu occupies a very important spot: the end of the cemetery’s main axis & at the feet of President Carlos Pelligrini. Intended to inspire, one of the quotes on the side of the tomb reads:

El progreso, fundamento del bienestar general, es obra de los pueblos y resultado de la riqueza justamente distribuida.

Progress, the foundation of general well-being, is the work of the people & the result of equal distribution of wealth.

Furthermore, an entire series of values is represented around the entire crypt. Included are depictions of Justice, Austerity, Liberty & Equality:

Recoleta Cemetery, Buenos Aires, Aramburu

Pedro Aramburu became the de facto President after the Revolución Libertadora & the brief, 50-day term of Eduardo Lonardi. He governed from 1955 to 1958. Democracy returned after Aramburu left office, but the political & economic situation in Argentina was a disaster in the 1960’s. Periods of military rule alternated with democratically elected leaders like a revolving door. Aramburu even ran unsuccessfully for President in 1963… fate had something else planned for him.

An organization known as the Montoneros formed in the late 1960’s as a Catholic, pro-Perón paramilitary group. Perón backed their terrorist actions… at least while he remained in Spain. In their very first public act—the Montonero debut on the political scene—they kidnapped Aramburu from his Barrio Norte apartment (Montevideo 1053, original building now demolished, a supermarket built in its place).

Disguised as fellow military personnel & claiming the need to take him to a safe haven, in reality they questioned him about the location of Eva’s remains & held him responsible for anti-Perón actions while in office. Aramburu revealed nothing about Eva & paid a heavy price. He was shot & left dead in a field in 1970, to be buried later in Recoleta Cemetery.

General Pedro Aramburu, Recoleta Cemetery

Aramburu’s corpse was stolen from Recoleta Cemetery in 1974 by the same group who murdered him & later recovered by authorities near Parque Las Heras. For the rest of the story, read “The Return of Aramburu“… truth is definitely stranger than fiction.

Recoleta Cemetery, Buenos Aires, Aramburu

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426. peuser

Recoleta Cemetery, Buenos Aires, Peuser

Born in the town of Bad Camberg in the Duchy of Nassau (later annexed to Prussia) in 1843, the parents of Jacobo Peuser arrived in Argentina in 1855 when he was 12 years old. Instead of settling in the capital, they moved to the province of Santa Fe. Young Jacobo inclined toward graphic arts & all aspects of book production, founding one of the most successful publishing companies in Argentina. From 1867 until the beginning of the 20th century, the Peuser empire continued to expand with several production plants in Buenos Aires & branches in most major cities in Argentina. Peuser passed away in 1901 just before his 58th birthday.

Recoleta Cemetery, Buenos Aires, Peuser

During the company’s long existance, Peuser became best known for guidebooks. The predecessor for the modern day Guía T, the little red Guía Peuser contained numerous, invaluable listings for Buenos Aires: street names, transportation timetables, business directories… no household was without one. Peuser also expanded into national tourism, making an equivalent of the Michelin Guide in Argentina. Although the guides do not exist today, copies can be found easily in Mercado Libre (source for photos below):

Recoleta Cemetery, Buenos Aires, Guía Peuser

Recoleta Cemetery, Buenos Aires, Guía Peuser

As a compliment to their guidebooks, Peuser produced a series of postcards which showcased the beauty of Argentina at the end of the 19th century. Valued by collectors, the photos give us a view of the entire nation… not just Buenos Aires:

Recoleta Cemetery, Buenos Aires, postal Peuser

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