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Author: Robert

082. recent restoration ◊

If you notice scaffolding surrounding a tomb or mausoleum in Recoleta Cemetery, don’t worry. It’s not a demolition project.

I plan on donating 10% of map profits to the Asociación Amigos del Cementerio de Recoleta in order to help a good cause. Since 2002, the Friends’ Association has coordinated the restoration of the tombs of historically important figures. Most sculptures & monuments are generally around 100 years old so pollution, climate change, & invasion by plants & microorganisms can do a lot of damage over time. Also, plots are normally purchased for eternity so if a family leaves Argentina, has no descendants, moves their family to another cemetery, or does not pay the monthly maintenance fee, the mausoleum slowly decays over time.

From stop #6 in our PDF guide, three completed restoration projects can be seen. The first is a General José María Pirán whose bust decorates his vault:

José Pirán, Recoleta Cemetery

The large, unfinished column houses the remains of the adopted son of one of Argentina’s most beloved presidents, Domingo Faustino Sarmiento. His son, Dominguito, was buried here after being killed in the war with Paraguay:

Dominguito Sarmiento, Recoleta Cemetery

An obelisk crowned with an angel is popularly known as the Cenotaph of the Three Friends. A cenotaph means that this is just a memorial & no remains are buried here. Evidently these three were such good friends that their loved ones wanted to remember them as a trio. You can see a plaque as well as a symbol of what each man did as you walk around. Alberto Viola was a prolific writer & politician (with books). Adolfo Mitre was son of President Bartolomé Mitre & a poet (hence the lyre). Benigno Lugones was a writer for La Nación newspaper (which is his symbol). Oddly enough all three died within a year of each other:

Cenotaph, 3 friends, Recoleta Cemetery

Cenotaph, 3 friends, Recoleta Cemetery

In the long run, ADACRE never responded to my offer of donating 10% of map profits. Basically I put that cash into maintaining this blog, but it would have been nice to make a contribution.

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081. anchors

An angel with an anchor is one of the oldest existing Christian symbols. Used primarily until the year 400 A.D., the image is taken directly from the Book of Hebrews 6:19-20… hope is “an anchor of the soul, sure & firm.” Just as an anchor maintains a ship steady, so does the Christian faith & early Christian cemeteries often used the symbol on tombs.

No one knows exactly why the anchor was replaced by other symbols in later years, but a revival began in the 1600s especially in cemeteries. Although not abundant in Recoleta Cemetery, a few angels with anchors can be found on the tops of domes or by vault entrances:

Anchor, Recoleta Cemetery

Anchor, Recoleta Cemetery

Anchor, Recoleta Cemetery

Anchor, Recoleta Cemetery

Anchor, Recoleta Cemetery

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080. familia de don llambi campbell

Llambi Campbell, Recoleta Cemetery

This gated family vault uses only underground storage with little ornamentation above except for one of the most beautiful angels in the cemetery. Paulino Llambi Campbell owned a large amount of land in the Argentine province of Santa Fe & named the area & town after his family.

The angel holds a trumpet in one hand while crossing her arms over her chest. The slightly bowed head is hardly demure… she has a very come-hither look on her face. Add some sensual curves & this is one of the most femme fatale statues in Recoleta Cemetery:

Llambi Campbell, Recoleta Cemetery

But this statue is not unique. Inspired by a similar angel in Staglieno Cemetery in Genoa, Italy, she makes the Recoleta version seem absolutely tame. The original was made by Giulio Monteverde, an Italian artist who trained Lola Mora & Victor de Pol as well as sculpting the crucifixion inside the entrance gate chapel. Thanks to Sergio Sanginisi for taking such a wonderful photo:

Staglieno Cemetery angel, Genoa

Just above the staircase which descends into the family vault is an inscription in French, “there is no death except for the one who is forgotten.” Thanks to Sergio for helping with the translation:

Llambi Campbell, Recoleta Cemetery

Update (08 Feb 2012): Thanks to the online Witcomb Collection, older versions of Recoleta Cemetery are coming to light. A nearby plot (four mini-blocks to the right) originally belonged to Vicente Ocampo & displayed a more accurate copy of the Staglieno masterpiece. Unfortunately only the Llambi Campbell copy survives today, & the Vicente Ocampo plot has been sold & divided into four sub-plots. I wonder what the Ocampo family did with their copy???

Recoleta Cemetery, Buenos Aires, Ocampo, Colección Witcomb

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079. barris

Although the red granite mausoleum of the Barris family doesn’t attract much attention, its decoration certainly does. The 1922 discovery of the tomb of King Tutankhamon drove the world into an Egyptian design craze. Two-dimensional artwork & emphasis on straight lines were also a perfect match for Art Deco. There are several Egyptian-inspired vaults in Recoleta Cemetery, but this is one of the most artistic.

The door incorporates a little bit of everything… an eagle, a cartouche, fantastic bird-ram creatures, some Egyptians & even a scarab. Probably the most relevant decoration is the “ka”—two upraised arms which represent the soul or life force:

Barris, Recoleta Cemetery

Barris, Recoleta Cemetery

Twin windows with papyrus & a pair of dogs complete the decoration:

Barris, Recoleta Cemetery

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