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Author: Robert

030. watchful lions

Bravery & strength are character traits commonly identified with lions. Used historically to decorate coats-of-arms of several royal families, even pop culture praises lion-like qualities in “The Wizard of Oz” & “The Lion King.” What better animal to protect loved ones during difficult times? A few large felines blend in with their domesticated relatives in Recoleta Cemetery.

Lion sculpture, Recoleta Cemetery

Lion sculpture, Recoleta Cemetery

Lion sculpture, Recoleta Cemetery

Lion sculpture, Recoleta Cemetery

Berisso, Recoleta Cemetery

Lion sculpture, Recoleta Cemetery

Lion sculpture, Recoleta Cemetery

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029. cause of death

Lots of information can be found out about the occupants of a particular tomb, even with only basic Spanish… just stop & study the plaques. A picture is worth a thousand words.

Luis María de la Cárcova, Recoleta Cemetery

Upper text reads: “To First Lieutenant Luis María de la Cárcova, RIP. He passed away tragically on 03 May 1948.” As is customary in Recoleta Cemetery, this plaque was given on the first anniversary of his death by those who miss him… in this case, fellow military personnel.

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027. ventilation

Although Recoleta Cemetery doesn’t fit into the standard, macabre mold—on the contrary, it’s usually calm, relaxing & peaceful no matter how many tourists are packed inside—it’s still a cemetery. Some might believe that the spirit lives forever, but the body certainly doesn’t. Keep in mind that Recoleta Cemetery is a mix of tombs & mausoleums… enclosed structures with caskets inside. Now imagine the interior of your favorite tomb during the long, hot summers in Buenos Aires. It isn’t pretty.

Fortunately, mausoleums come equipped with ingenious & decorative types of ventilation. The most common are glass panels on the rooftop with a gap that allows air to circulate freely. But due to their fragile nature, ceiling vents are usually the first to show signs of decay. Panels fall out over time & go crashing into the interior. Hailstorms wreak havoc. But if panels are decorated or colored, they add a very special touch:

Ventilation, Recoleta Cemetery

Ventilation, Recoleta Cemetery

Ventilation, Recoleta Cemetery

Ventilation, Recoleta Cemetery

Ventilation, Recoleta Cemetery

Occasionally the upper part of domes will have a subtle grill incorporated:

Ventilation, Recoleta Cemetery

Modern options break the architectural harmony of the place, but no one seems to mind as they spin in the breeze:

Ventilation, Recoleta Cemetery

The most creative vent attaches solar cells on the exterior to power the fan inside:

Ventilation, Recoleta Cemetery

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026. pedro josé díaz

Rarely found but interesting to seek out are drawings etched in stone or concrete. This particular spot has no family name or artist’s signature, but the vault belongs to Pedro José Díaz who fought in early wars after Argentina declared independence:

Pedro José Díaz, Recoleta Cemetery
Pedro José Díaz, Recoleta Cemetery

During my initial visits to Recoleta Cemetery several years ago, I remember a bust of someone in military uniform decorating this tomb. Unfortunately it has been removed, & I never took a photograph. The quality of the etching is generally very good, but the miniature swords detract from the strength of the overall image.

Pedro José Díaz, Recoleta Cemetery

Update (24 Jan 2021): Thanks to a book by Oscar Andrés De Masi published in 2012, we can add a photo of the former bust & confirm the author of the tomb. Juan Carlos Oliva Navarro, best known for the monument to Pedro de Mendoza in Parque Lezama (San Telmo), designed this vault… & even signed the photo below:

Pedro José Díaz, Recoleta Cemetery
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