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Month: June 2008

211. historic photo 3

Entrance gate, Recoleta Cemetery

Even though I don’t have an exact date for this photo, my best guess would be early 1900s based on carriages & style of dress. The original photo sits in the Archivo General de la Nación, but this version was found on Wikipedia. The entrance gate is almost the same today with two interesting changes:

  • Street lamps have been removed.
  • Symbols along the frieze originally had each background panel painted in some unknown, darker color. Today the reverse is true with symbols painted in ochre on a white background panel.

What I’d give to be in that spot back then with my digital camera!

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210. another president missing ◊

Miguel Juárez Celman, Recoleta Cemetery

Similar to Victorino de la Plaza, the former family vault of President Miguel Juárez Celman sits vacant & forgotten… an odd fate since Celman incited one of the most important events in Argentine history, the Revolution of 1890.

Juárez Celman was born & raised in Córdoba where he studied law. Belonging to an aristocratic family, politics was a natural career path. Moving up in provincial then national government, Juárez Celman succeeded Carlos Tejedor as governor of Buenos Aires in 1880. Surviving Tejedor’s insurrection, Juárez Celman later founded the upper-class political party, Partido Autonomista Nacional (PAN). An alliance with President Roca earned him trust & political capital… so much that Juárez Celman was elected to succeed Roca.

After becoming President, Juárez Celman began to distance himself from Roca & preferred to do things his own way. Concentrating power in his own hands, the public referred to the term of Juárez Celman as a unicato… a one-man rule. After three years in office & with inflation out of control, diverse groups expressed their discontent with Juárez Celman. Upper class families, members of the clergy, university leaders, senators & the emerging middle class joined forces to form the Unión Cívica. Their main goal was to defeat the PAN in upcoming elections. But at the same time, preparations were being made for a coup d’etat.

Leading the Unión Cívica, Leandro Alem conspired with an influential general, Manuel Campos (brother of Luis María Campos). Planned for July 21st, the revolution was aborted by the arrest of key figures… someone had leaked information about the surprise attack. General Campos was taken under custody & while in prison received a visit by none other former President Roca. More sneaky plans were underway.

Miguel Juárez Celman, Recoleta Cemetery

From jail, Campos sent word to Alem to go ahead with their plans & fighting broke out early on July 26, 1890. Juárez Celman’s government forces used Retiro as their base of operations while Alem’s forces were concentrated in Plaza Lavalle, now home of the Supreme Court. Battles took place in the heart of Buenos Aires as civilians took up arms in the attempt to oust Juárez Celman. As the fighting continued for the next few days, General Campos made obvious mistakes in command & gave the government ample time to recover & fight back. Alem noted these irregularities at the time but given the difficult situation, felt he couldn’t argue with Campos. Fighting ended four days later with a truce. While the revolution was not successful in overthrowing the government, the political landscape quickly changed afterwards.

Exactly as conspired, Juárez Celman lost all support & resigned, handing the government to Vice President Carlos Pellegrini. Even though there is no historical record of conversations between General Campos & ex-President Roca, it’s taken for fact that Campos made military mistakes on purpose. He threw the revolution so Roca & his allies could remain in power. All subplots aside, strong civilian support of the attempted revolution marked the beginning of civil society in Argentina & the birth of a radical political party.

There’s not much left to call attention to the Juárez Celman vault. Windows are usually open & the interior is full of frescos, damaged by years of neglect. Exterior plaques which identified the occupants sit on the floor among the rest of the debris. Tomás Juárez Celman is on the left & Miguel hides on the right:

Miguel Juárez Celman, Recoleta Cemetery

Miguel Juárez Celman, Recoleta Cemetery

Miguel Juárez Celman, Recoleta Cemetery

Although not the best photo (just sticking in the camera & hoping for the best), it’s evident that all caskets have been moved to another location & one less President rests in peace in Recoleta. Since Juárez Celman was from Córdoba, his family likely returned him there:

Miguel Juárez Celman, Recoleta Cemetery

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209. ongoing restoration

As reported by La Nación newspaper in March, further restoration works are now in full swing. Even though the number of projects scheduled for 2008 is fewer than those completed last year, it’s a relief to see planned restorations underway.

The exterior for the crypt of Nicolás Rodríguez Peña has been cleaned & a missing truncated column has been returned to its base. Interestingly enough, the inscription on the column is in French. For the moment, I can only make out a portion of the text describing inconsolable parents & their best son. I’ll have to wait until the scaffolding is removed & better light to add the full text to the original post:

Nicolás Rodríguez Peña, Recoleta Cemetery

Nicolás Rodríguez Peña, Recoleta Cemetery

Another vault currently getting a facelift is Rufina Cambacérès. One afternoon a couple weeks ago I noticed someone removing rust from the wrought-iron doors & decorative gate at the corner. Now scaffolding covers the entire structure. The restoration guy appears to be working from the top down since I could only see his feet:

Rufina Cambacérès, Recoleta Cemetery

While I don’t doubt that the finished restoration will look fantastic, the weathered & aged statue of Rufina has a certain charm to it:

Rufina Cambacérès, Recoleta Cemetery

So much restoration has been done over the past few years that an info panel now sits at the entrance to show visitors before & after photos of major works:

Restoration info panel, Recoleta Cemetery

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207. sepulcro del general terrada

Juan Florencio Terrada, Recoleta Cemetery

In October 1806—just months after the first British invasion of Buenos Aires—the victorious Compañía de Granaderos Voluntários de Infantería was split for easier management. Captain Juan Florencio Terrada commanded the newly created, 350 member Compañía de Granaderos Provinciales since he had bravely commanded troops under Liniers. Terrada saw battle again during the second British invasion the following year.

Juan Florencio Terrada, Recoleta Cemetery

Continuing to move up politically as well as within the military, Terrada accepted appointment as the first Governor-Mayor (Gobernador Intendente) of Mendoza province in 1814. A later post as Minister of War gave him the responsibility of assisting José de San Martín prepare troops for the independence of Chile.

Terrada married María Mármol, aunt of José Mármol. José took refuge in the Terrada estate in San Isidro before spending years in exile in Montevideo. Terrada passed away in 1824, & this crypt was declared a national historic monument in 1946.

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