Skip to content

Category: Politicians

165. rufino de elizalde ◊

Rufino de Elizalde, Recoleta Cemetery

Many historians refer to Rufino de Elizalde as the first politician with a clear vision of Argentina’s future. His participation in numerous debates across the Americas & Europe left no doubt about Elizalde’s stance. Born in 1822 into a lower class military family in Buenos Aires, Elizalde put himself through law school & graduated in 1846. Joining the anti-Rosas factions, he quickly moved up in political circles, served in Congress & became a close ally of Bartolomé Mitre.

That allegiance paid off when Mitre became President in 1862. Appointed as Minister of Foreign Relations, Elizalde first voiced what Argentines have become known for—their strong ties to Europe & semi-rejection of their neighbors. This is particularly striking considering Elizalde lived decades before European immigration to Argentina began in earnest. His most famous quote states:

Es claro que existen mayores vínculos, mayores intereses, mayor armonía entre las repúblicas americanas y ciertas naciones europeas que entre las repúblicas americanas mismas… América, al contener naciones independientes, con sus propios medios y necesidades de gobierno, no puede formar una entidad política unitaria.

It is clear that better ties, more interests, better harmony exists between American republics & certain European nations than between the American republics themselves… America, consisting of independent nations, with their own means & government needs, cannot form a united political entity.

The big problem of Elizalde’s era was obviously where to form alliances. The Monroe Doctrine of the United States threatened to become Pan-American, & several nations tried to limit US influence from spreading further south. Argentina had a privileged position, far enough from the US to shift its concerns to other national projects.

Rufino de Elizalde, Recoleta Cemetery

Elizalde wanted to become President after Mitre but was beat by Sarmiento. Reclaiming his role as Minister of Foreign Relations under Avellaneda, Elizalde continued to serve in various government positions until a few years before his death in 1887.

The underground mausoleum obviously dates from a later era—that of Art Deco—but a plaque gives us a clue. Elizalde’s son also shared his name & was President of the Buenos Aires Rowing Club. The son must have secured this space for his father as well as his own descendants:

Rufino de Elizalde, Recoleta Cemetery

Leave a Comment

159. familia luis vernet

Luis Vernet, Recoleta Cemetery

An official Argentine presence on the Falkland Islands can be traced back to the appointment of Luis Vernet as Governor of the Islas Malvinas in 1829:

Luis Vernet, Recoleta Cemetery

But a lot happened before Vernet arrived. Originally claimed by France, the islands were ceded to Spain in 1766. But straggling French colonists plus a few British ones made Spain uneasy. After armed conflicts, the British officially left the Falklands in 1776 & control passed to Buenos Aires—the new capital of the Viceroyalty of the River Plate formed that same year. Argentina continued to claim the islands as part of national territory after independence from Spain in 1816, but other matters were more pressing. As a result, no government official was sent to manage the scant number of people living there.

In 1820, an American privateer working on behalf of the Argentine government claimed the islands again for Argentina when he docked for repairs. Four years later, Luis Vernet made his first trip to the Falklands after being given a land grant on the eastern island. Various attempted settlements by Vernet failed, but finally a few brave people remained. Vernet governed from 1829 until an armed conflict with the US in 1831 forced his return to Buenos Aires.

Since Vernet governed on behalf of Argentina under supervision of the British, responsibility was usually shared… even if both governments claimed true ownership of the islands. After Vernet’s departure, his British deputy remained in charge which reinforces England’s current claim. Since the 1982 war, politicians from both the UK & Argentina often exchange political barbs whenever convenient.

The Vernet family vault shows obvious signs of neglect. The ashes of Luis & his wife take center stage while other family members are listed on the interior walls. If Argentina hopes for a peaceful return of the Malvinas, then the least they could do is pay for the restoration & maintenance of this vault. Only a few steps from the tomb of Eva Perón, it would attract the attention of every tourist:

Luis Vernet, Recoleta Cemetery

Luis Vernet, Recoleta Cemetery

Ironically, the vault was made a National Historic Monument only in 1983… about one year after losing the war.

Update (21 Feb 2012): On a recent trip to San Isidro (40 min north of Buenos Aires by train), I came upon the former residence of Luis Vernet. Today the estate is called “La Porteña” & is in need of a better paint job, but a plaque remembers its previous owner. After returning from the Falklands, Vernet was the first mayor of San Isidro:

San Isidro, La Porteña, Luis Vernet

San Isidro, La Porteña, Luis Vernet

Leave a Comment

157. manuel quintana ◊

Manuel Quintana, Recoleta Cemetery

A life-long statesman, Quintana held a number of important positions during his political career, mainly in Congress. He eventually rose to be among the political elite & won the presidency in 1904. The following year, an uprising by the UCR got his term off to a shaky start. Already in his 70s, Quintana’s health was weakened by having to deal with the uprising. A few months later an anarchist from Spain tried to assassinate Quintana. The revolver failed to go off, but Quintana was so distraught from the incident that he eventually stepped down from office & his Vice President took over. Quintana died a few months later in 1906.

What’s most striking about this tomb is its grandeur & elegance. It’s so large that you really have to step back in order to appreciate the decoration. Also, the effigy of Quintana literally resting in peace is not common in Recoleta Cemetery. Sculptures usually take the form of the living person (as in the boxer Luis Ángel Firpo) or heavenly figures such as angels & cherubs. It’s certainly an elegant exception to the norm:

Manuel Quintana, Recoleta Cemetery

Manuel Quintana, Recoleta Cemetery

The interior of the vault is oddly divided. The left side door leads downstairs to dark underground storage. On the right side, another door opens to a small staircase leading up to the main altar. An Omega shines through a beautiful piece of Art Nouveau stained glass, while the Alpha is above the door & can only be viewed from the interior:

Manuel Quintana, Recoleta Cemetery

Manuel Quintana, Recoleta Cemetery

Leave a Comment

151. carlos tejedor

Carlos Tejedor, Recoleta Cemetery

One of the great opposers of Juan Manuel de Rosas & Nicolás Avellaneda is here… or maybe not.

Born in 1817, Tejedor became politically active while studying law at the University of Buenos Aires. Firmly against authoritairan Rosas, he decided to ride the storm & remain in Buenos Aires while most of his friends went into exile. Forming the Club de los Cinco, Tejedor plotted against Rosas with ranchers in the southern province. If a revolution could hit Rosas where it hurt economically, then perhaps he could be removed from politics. Fat chance. The Maza Conspiracy failed, forcing Tejedor to flee to Chile.

Returning to Buenos Aires after Rosas left for England, Tejedor was elected to Congress twice but resigned both times based on principle. He fought for the independence of Buenos Aires along with fellow intellectuals Valentín Alsina, Adolfo Alsina, José Marmol & Pastor Obligado. Representing Buenos Aires after the 1859 Battle of Cepeda, the city swore to the national consititution but did not hand over the big prize of port duties. In turn, this lead to the 1861 Battle of Pavón & yet another defeat for Buenos Aires.

In 1878, Tejedor became governor of the Province of Buenos Aires & openly opposed President Nicolás Avellaneda. Although strongly supported, Tejedor failed to defeat Roca in the presidential elections of 1880. When Tejedor learned of Avellaneda’s plan to make Buenos Aires the national capital, he gathered forces to overthrow the current President & annul election results. Avellaneda fled to Belgrano (at that time not incorporated into the city limits of Buenos Aires) & left President-elect Roca in charge of the Army. After battles in Flores, Barracas, & Parque Patricios, Tejedor’s forces were defeated.

Carlos Tejedor did not resign from politics & later wrote a book titled “La Defensa de Buenos Aires” about the 1880 insurrection. But here’s my beef. Historians claim Tejedor died in 1903. Everyone else says Tejedor is buried here. The gloomy 1899 tomb pictured above doesn’t make sense. Tejedor should have a larger tomb based on his importance in national affairs, or at least the dates should coincide.

What gives?

6 Comments

137. bartolomé mitre ◊

Bartolomé Mitre, Recoleta Cemetery

Born in Buenos Aires, Mitre grew up during the strict times of Juan Manuel de Rosas & even worked on one of the ranches owned by the former autocrat. Internal conflict kept Mitre on the move in his early years, living in Uruguay, Perú & Chile before joining the forces that defeated Rosas.

When Mitre was appointed to a high government position in Buenos Aires in 1852, he abruptly switched allegiances. Friends that had been instrumental in ousting Rosas were now his enemies. In favor of Buenos Aires becoming the national capital, Mitre’s attitude was best described by one provinicial strongman who openly challenged the national government:

Ser porteño es ser ciudadano exclusivista y ser provinciano es ser mendigo sin patria, sin libertad, sin derechos.

Being from Buenos Aires is like being an exclusive citizen while someone from the provinces is a worthless bum without homeland, without liberty & without rights.

Mitre’s political prowess continued to grow & was eventually elected President. During his one term in office, he committed Argentina to a horrible war against Paraguay. Hardly a popular campaign, Mitre’s successor would be the one left to negotiate peace & pick up the pieces.

During a later break from politics, Mitre wrote historical biographies, mainly of key figures during the wars for independence. Those books earned him a literary following among the upper class who financially supported Mitre’s longest-lasting contribution to Argentina… founding the newspaper La Nación. He attempted to win a second bid for the presidency but failed.

AGN, Bartolomé Mitre, Recoleta Cemetery

Mitre died in 1906, so the current Art Deco mausoleum does not fit with the date of his death. The original Beaux Arts vault (pictured above) was modified several times with the last change in 1938—the end of the Art Deco era in Buenos Aires. Simple yet majestic, figures from left to right represent the ideals of Duty, Argentina & Justice. For the 100th anniversary of Mitre’s death, much-needed restoration brought back the shine… just look at it before:

Bartolomé Mitre, Recoleta Cemetery

Mitre is respected enough to figure on the former 2 peso bill (retired from circulation in 2018), & the reverse depicts his house in downtown Buenos Aires just two blocks behind the cathedral. That residence, now home to the Museo Mitre, contains one of the largest collections of South American maps in the world… over 12,000:

Bartolomé Mitre, 2 peso bill

Bartolomé Mitre, 2 peso bill

4 Comments