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Month: December 2009

360. familia de ramón a. lópez lecube

López Lecube, Recoleta Cemetery

Like so many other occupants of Recoleta Cemetery, the López Lecube family owned large tracts of land in Argentina —theirs happened to be in the Province of Buenos Aires near the town of Puan. The remarkable thing about this tomb is its sculptures by Dolores “Lola” Mora… the only ones she ever did for a cemetery.

Dolores Mora, born in the province of Tucumán in 1866, received a grant from Congress to continue her art studies in Rome. By 1898 her most famous professor was Giulio Monteverde who did the crucifixion statue in the cemetery’s chapel:

Capilla, Giulio Monteverde, Recoleta Cemetery

Lola Mora returned to Buenos Aires with her first public commission in 1903—a fantastic fountain depicting the birth of Venus titled “Las Nereidas.” Unfortunately the fountain was installed in a poor location for such a monumental work & was moved to Costanera Sur six years later. Some say that the naked figures on the fountain caused a scandal, but it was more likely a personal attack on Mora who had fallen out of official favor. She supervised the move, & the fountain continues to impress over 100 years later:

Las Nereidas, Lola Mora

Las Nereidas, Lola Mora

Las Nereidas, Lola Mora

Las Nereidas, Lola Mora

Moving the fountain was only the first of a series of public snubs Lola Mora suffered. The government refused to pay her for commissions, statues already in place on the steps of Congress were moved to faraway province, she was forced to sell her studio in Rome to pay debtors & project after project was denied her. Times & styles had changed, plus the affiliation with President Roca did her little good in later years. Lola Mora died in 1936 with no fortune or fame.

The statues for the López Lecube vault were commissioned in 1912 already after her luck began to turn. At least they are a significant addition to the artistic heritage of the cemetery. Signed by Mora during her brief marriage to Luis Hernández Otero, she was 15 years older than him & later discovered he was cheating on her. Obviously it didn’t last. The statues have been recently cleaned, making the signature almost invisible. Sometimes a bit of grit adds character:

López Lecube, Lola Mora, Recoleta Cemetery

López Lecube, Lola Mora, Recoleta Cemetery

López Lecube, Lola Mora, Recoleta Cemetery

López Lecube, Lola Mora, Recoleta Cemetery

Update (24 Oct 2011): During a recent visit to San Miguel de Tucumán, I was able to visit the crypt of Lola Mora in the Cementerio del Oeste:

Argentina, Tucumán, San Miguel de Tucumán, Cementerio del Oeste, Lola Mora

For more info about the fascinating life of Lola Mora, watch this episode of bio.ar produced by the government-sponsored Encuentro channel (in Spanish).

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359. bernardo de irigoyen

Bernardo de Irigoyen, Recoleta Cemetery

An important & influential politician of his time, Bernardo de Irigoyen is one of the many figures in Argentine history who have fallen from collective memory. Time to change that. Born in Buenos Aires in 1822, De Irigoyen supported Rosas & after completing a law degree was sent by “the Restorer” to negotiate border problems with Chile. Even Domingo Sarmiento, then exiled in Chile, admired De Irigoyen’s diplomatic skill.

Bernardo de Irigoyen, Recoleta Cemetery

After returning to Buenos Aires, the Acuerdo de San Nicolás was a direct result of De Irigoyen’s negotiation ability, bringing provinces of the Confederation together and forming the basis for a later constitution… no matter if Buenos Aires rejected it 🙂 And even after Rosas left Argentina for good, the new regime valued De Irigoyen. He was head of the Treasury under Sarmiento’s presidency & Minister of Foreign Relations for both Avellaneda & Roca.

Bernardo de Irigoyen, Recoleta Cemetery

When De Irigoyen ran for President in 1886, Roca supported Miguel Juárez Celman instead of his former minister. Big mistake. The 1890 Revolution might not have happened had Roca supported De Irigoyen… an interesting what-if scenario. Defeated, De Irigoyen took a break from public life until the formation of the Unión Cívica political party. He served in a number of national & provincial positions until his death in 1906.

Bernardo de Irigoyen, Recoleta Cemetery

The family vault shows few signs of maintenance these days. For someone who dedicated his entire life to serving the nation, it’s amazing that this mausoleum is not listed as a National Historic Monument:

Bernardo de Irigoyen, Recoleta Cemetery

And besides a street name, the only memory of Bernardo de Irigoyen in Buenos Aires is an Art Deco statue in Plaza Rodríguez Peña:

Bernardo de Irigoyen, Plaza Rodríguez Peña

Bernardo de Irigoyen, Plaza Rodríguez Peña

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