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Category: Operation

104. resale

With no further room for expansion, an interesting phenomenon developed in Recoleta Cemetery—the resale of tombs. If a family decides to use another cemetery, they can transfer caskets & personal effects to the new location & sell their mausoleum to someone else. Given high construction costs, new owners typically opt for renovation of the existing tomb & tack on their name instead of building an entirely new structure.

Family vaults which have been resold can be easily identified. Look for name plates which appear pasted over the original owners:

Resold tomb, Recoleta Cemetery

Sometimes new tenants don’t bother erasing the previous owners’ name:

Resold tomb, Recoleta Cemetery

Other times a new nameplate obviously covers the previous family name:

Resold tomb, Recoleta Cemetery

Resold tomb, Recoleta Cemetery

Or a patchwork job erases the past:

Resold tomb, Recoleta Cemetery

When a family name doesn’t match either the style or font of the original owner, it’s a dead giveaway:

Resold tomb, Recoleta Cemetery

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103. city investment

Obras públicas, Recoleta Cemetery

The city government of Buenos Aires decided to spend some cash to improve the changing rooms & the personnel restrooms. I’m sure employees will welcome the improved facilities, but the public restrooms should be the next priority given their current run-down state.

According to the sign, the contract was granted on November 22, 2007 & the 3-month project began on December 3rd. Total cost: over $105,000 pesos or a little more than U$S 33,000… a minimal investment.

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098. deep down

Since the purpose of family vaults was to house multiple generations, underground storage became a necessity. So how deep do vaults go? Several meters, sometimes with more space below than there is above.

If the mausoleum occupies a wide enough lot, there will be a staircase which leads down to lower levels of storage. Narrow lots may not have room for a staircase, but remove the metal grate & ladders accomplish the same goal. It makes for a tight fit in some cases:

Underground storage, Recoleta Cemetery

Underground storage, Recoleta Cemetery

Underground storage, Recoleta Cemetery

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092. juan alleno ◊

David Alleno, Recoleta Cemetery

Although this skinny, narrow mausoleum doesn’t stand out, an urban legend lurks inside. Peek through the door to find the sculpture of David Alleno—caretaker in Recoleta Cemetery from 1881 to 1910.

Like the caretakers of today, David had a certain sector which he maintained & apparently became obsessed over where his final resting place would be. Members of the Alleno family claim that David’s brother, Juan, had already purchased this plot for his family… perhaps that inspired David to be buried in Recoleta Cemetery as well. After saving over a lifetime, he was able to have a sculpture made of himself at work, complete with keys, broom & watering can:

David Alleno, Recoleta Cemetery

David Alleno, Recoleta Cemetery

Urban legend claims that when the sculpture arrived from Italy & was placed in the tomb, David was so eager to complete the project that he went home & committed suicide… knowing that he would soon rest in peace here. Whether the motive is true or not, David Alleno is now locked in with the elite residents of Recoleta Cemetery:

David Alleno, Recoleta Cemetery

Update (07 Nov 2010): Thanks to an investigation by Guada Aballe, we know a few more facts about the life of David Alleno… & she found photos too! One of the best resources for early 20th century Buenos Aires history is Caras & Caretas, a local magazine with political & social commentary. In the 10 Apr 1909 edition, Recoleta Cemetery workers were concerned about a change in administration. Various caretakers were photographed & David Alleno appeared in the article:

David Alleno, Recoleta Cemetery

David Alleno, Recoleta Cemetery

David Alleno spent 28 years working at Recoleta Cemetery & according to his death certificate—also amazingly uncovered by Guada—he passed away on 31 Aug 1915. The cause of death is listed as “trauma & cerebral contusion.” Of course whether or not the head injury was self-inflicted does not appear on the death certificate. But we’re one step closer to uncovering the truth behind the urban legend. Thanks, Guada!!

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087. map development 2

A few months later in November 2003, the hand-drawn map had been replaced with a more professional version. 89 locations (4 more than the first map) were marked to visit:

2003 gobBsAs map, Recoleta Cemetery

By either being lucky or a regular enough visitor, one day I was given a free handout which was a tri-fold reproduction of the map at the entrance gate:

2003 gobBsAs map, Recoleta Cemetery

Initially pleased at having a free guide to the cemetery, the design was remarkably amateur… for example, the map had been scanned at a very low resolution & enlarged. Pixels were glaringly obvious & angles were badly rendered. Note that there are two sets of three photos each on the map. The two sets are exactly the same. Could they not come up with six original photos for the brochure?

Design issues aside, the map turned out to be less than useful. In the pic below, what spot does #31 belong to? On the map it overlaps three squares, but in reality some of those blocks are subdivided. It took a bit of work to use the free handout:

2003 gobBsAs map, Recoleta Cemetery

A brief history was poorly translated on the back of the pamphlet. Read for yourself:

2003 gobBsAs map, Recoleta Cemetery

Don’t get me wrong… I’m not trying to slam the city government’s efforts. The problem is that at the same time they were producing wonderfully designed brochures to promote other areas of development within the city. Cutting-edge design & attention to detail was what I’d come to expect. So for the most-visited tourist site in Buenos Aires, I expected something much better than what was produced.

Only a few months before this map was issued, I began my walking tours in Buenos Aires. One of the walks offered was of the Recoleta neighborhood, & we ended with a quick stroll through the cemetery. I wasn’t sure if the tours would be successful, but I was certain that Recoleta Cemetery could be better promoted.

Read the complete story in the following posts titled “map development”: Part 1, Part 3, Part 4, Part 5, Part 6 & Part 7. Good news! The PDF guidebook is now available.

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