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Author: Robert

188. general alvear

General Alvear, Recoleta Cemetery

Built by Alejandro Christophersen, this gargantuan granite temple has housed the remains of the Alvear family over three generations. Its size adequately reflects the importance of this family. A nearby avenue named after them is synonymous for upper class elegance with expensive design shops, a few embassies, & the Jockey Club all sharing the same address.

The general referred to on the cornice was Carlos María de Alvear, a controversial fighter for Argentine independence & frequently at odds with founding father José de San Martín. With a life worthy of being made into an epic movie, Carlos acquired the status of national hero for winning campaigns during the 1827 Argentina-Brazil War. He died in Washington, DC in 1852 while serving Argentina’s first ambassador to the United States.

One of Carlos’s most important sons was Torcuato de Alvear, also buried in the family mausoleum. As the first mayor of Buenos Aires after it became the nation’s capital, Torcuato instituted wide-sweeping improvements: constructing Avenida de Mayo down the middle of a city block, demolishing the old marketplace in the main square, & commissioning the large entrance gate for Recoleta Cemetery. Since Torcuato ordered cemetery improvements, he made sure to place his family’s mausoleum in front.

One of Torcuato’s sons became President in 1922. Marcelo T. de Alvear is remembered for leading a period of economic & cultural prosperity. Although part of the upper class, Marcelo became instrumental in shaping the Socialist-leaning Unión Cívica Radical party.

Declared a National Historic Monument in 1946, all generations of the Alvear family can watch everyone coming & going from their prime position:

General Alvear, Recoleta Cemetery

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187. las ciudades de los muertos

Sponsored by the Dirección General Patrimonio & Instituto Histórico, a series of five free lectures about death in Buenos Aires began yesterday. Naturally, I’ll be attending all of the talks… if anyone wants to join me, just send me an email. They take place every Friday from 18:30–20:00 at the Instituto Histórico (Avenida Córdoba 1556, 1º piso). Topics to be discussed are:

May 02 • “Los enterratorios en los siglos XVII y XVIII; las costumbres funerarias de la época” by architect Julio Cacciatore

May 09 • “Vida y muerte de negros y esclavos” by archaeologist Daniel Schávelzon

May 16 • “Los cementerios protestantes” by Dr. Maxine Hanon, “Los cementerios judios” by anthropologist Leonor Slavsky, & “Cementerios olvidados del norte y del sur” by Luis Cortese

May 23 • “Los cementerios de Flores” by neighborhood historian Ángel Prignano & “Los cementerios de Chacarita” by architect Julio Cacciatore

May 30 • “Historia y arte en el cementerio de la Recoleta” by cemetery director Dr. Carlos Francavilla & “Patrimonio narrativo del cementerio de la Recoleta” by Dr. María Rosa Lojo.

Even though some of the lectures do not relate directly to Recoleta Cemetery, I will post my notes since comparison & contrast always provide insight. There were over 50 people present for the first talk, so go a little early to get a good seat. Maybe I’ll see you there!

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185. campaign, expedition, or conquest?

Coronel Franklin Rawson, Recoleta Cemetery

When one of the defining moments of a nation’s history has three distinct names, controversy forces people to choose sides. Choose carefully between Campaña del Desierto, Expedición al Desierto or Conquista del Desierto… it reveals a lot about your political beliefs.

For most of the history of Buenos Aires, it was connected only to other cities upstream from the Tigre Delta. At odds with the indigenous people to the south, the Spanish began to carve out extra territory for themselves as did Argentines after independence. By the 1870s, successive campaigns had re-drawn the southern limit of the nation & gradually pushed it west at the same time. The map below shows these waves of expansion as they moved further away from the red dot of Buenos Aires:

Expansion of Buenos Aires

In an effort to raise government funds & acquire new territory, the nation put all land south to the Río Negro up for sale. Fewer than 300 families purchased estates that added an important expanse to Argentina. The sale also concentrated national power in the hands of a few. The only problem was that the land sold by the national government was not technically theirs… yet. Various indigenous tribes were living there, so the Minister of War was sent to “deliver” the land to its new owners.

In 1879, Julio Argentino Roca marched the Army into indigenous territory with modern weapons & killed an estimated 4,000 during the course of the fighting. About 14,000 were taken prisoner, marched to Buenos Aires while shackled, & separated based on sex. Some were used as conscript labor & some were jailed, but the end result was akin to genocide. Roca’s tactics also stopped a persistent problem of raids on cattle ranches & farm land. Capitalizing on his military success to launch a long political career, Roca was elected President in 1880.

Call it what you will, the fact that European immigration was desired just as enormous tracts of land needed to be worked made Argentina what it is today. Many of the upper-ranking officers who participated in this event are buried in Recoleta Cemetery… just pay attention to the plaques. From my point of view, these images are so politically incorrect that they would be funny if it weren’t so tragic.

Agustín Guillermo Casa, Recoleta Cemetery

A gun & sword top an entire array of indigenous weapons: a quiver of arrows, a hatchet, a lance, a bow & even a boleadora. In exchange for leaving the instruments of war aside, an indigenous man can now work the land with a shovel & improve his intellect by reading. No further comment necessary.

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