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Author: Robert

419. atilio massone ◊

Buenos Aires, Recoleta Cemetery, Atilio Massone

A massive vault with Art Deco reliefs full of emotion & allegory. Circle the entire structure to find representations of all stages of life: birth, adulthood & old age.

Buenos Aires, Recoleta Cemetery, Atilio Massone

Atilio Massone (father) arrived from Genoa in 1889, doing much to assist fellow Italian immigrants in his neighborhood of La Boca. He later started a successful pharmaceutical company taken over by his sons, Arnaldo & Atilio (junior). They founded the Instituto Massone, known for research in isolating biochemical compounds such as insulin & producing antibiotics. The institute was closed by the Perón government in 1950 supposedly for poor hygiene when in reality the Massone brothers refused to pay compulsory “donations” to the Eva Perón Foundation. It reopened in 1968 after Perón’s forced exile.

Buenos Aires, Recoleta Cemetery, Atilio Massone

This family vault has been recently cleaned & regular readers know that we are big fans of restoration. Not only does it preserve the cemetery for future generations, but it also gives us a look into the past… a glimpse of what tombs were like when first constructed. That said, details fail to stand out like they did prior to restoration. This tomb is good for debate: should tombs be completely restored or should some remain intact, letting the passage of time do its work?

Buenos Aires, Recoleta Cemetery, Atilio Massone

Buenos Aires, Recoleta Cemetery, Atilio Massone

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418. wonder woman #187, feb 2003

Recoleta Cemetery turns up in the most unexpected places. Marcelo discovered a few comic books which use Buenos Aires as the setting, & Wonder Woman #187 from February 2003 highlights the cemetery on pages 13-15.

It’s nice to see artists render the city correctly… Wonder Woman’s invisible jet is blown up over Avenida 9 de Julio, fights take place in Plaza de Mayo, Retiro train station is wiped out & Wonder Woman protects both porteños & tourists from a battle in Recoleta Cemetery:

Buenos Aires, Recoleta Cemetery, Wonder Woman, February 2003

Buenos Aires, Recoleta Cemetery, Wonder Woman, February 2003

Buenos Aires, Recoleta Cemetery, Wonder Woman, February 2003

Buenos Aires, Recoleta Cemetery, Wonder Woman, February 2003

Buenos Aires, Recoleta Cemetery, Wonder Woman, February 2003

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417. lucio vicente lópez

Buenos Aires, Recoleta Cemetery, Lucio Vicente López

Grandson of the author of the Argentina national anthem, the tomb of Lucio Vicente López is one of few in Recoleta Cemetery paid for by public donations. Regular readers know that the majority of plots belong to families, so something extraordinary must have happened for López to be buried alone here. It’s quite a story.

Already a lawyer & recognized journalist, López began publishing books in the 1880’s. La Gran Aldea (1884) first appeared as a regular magazine section & presented porteños with a clever look at themselves & some of their more absurd customs. A personal favorite is the section where a politician derides the main character for wanting to study. The politicians prides himself on getting ahead without ever opening a book. Hilarious. Project Gutenberg has a complete copy available online for free. Of course there was commentary about Recoleta Cemetery (translation mine):

Mientras depositaban el cajón en la bóveda de la familia, yo me perdí en las calles del cementerio.

¡Cuánta vana pompa!

Cómo podía medirse allí, junto con los mamarrachos de la marmolería criolla, la imbecilidad y la soberbia humanas. Allí la tumba pomposa de un estanciero… muchas leguas de campo, muchas vacas; los cueros y las lanas han levantado ese mausoleo que no es ni el de Moreno, ni el de García, ni el de los guerreros, ni el de los grandes hombres de letras.

Allí la regia sepultura de un avaro, más allá la de un imbécil… la pompa siguiéndolos en la muerte….

While the casket was placed in the family vault, I got lost among the walkways of the cemetery.

So much pompous vanity!

How could one be measured there, a local parade of imbeciles & morons alongside the best of humanity. There, the pompous tomb of a ranch owner… many leagues of countryside, lots of cows; leather & wool constructed that mausoleum which does not belong to Moreno, García, the soldiers, or the great academics.

Here the regal tomb of a miser, there another of an idiot… pomp following them in death…

As most members of the upper class, López soon became involved in politics. Shortly after the 1890 Revolution & under the government of Luis Saénz Peña, López was named Interventor Federal for the Province of Buenos Aires… basically a government inspector or auditor.

Although in the post for less than a year, López uncovered a case of corruption that he would pay dearly for. An unpaid government loan had been issued for a large lot of land… land that was later resold without payment of the original loan & whose resale also violated the loan’s terms. The person in question was Coronel Sarmiento (no relation to Domingo F.), personal secretary to General Luis María Campos then serving as Minister of War. López opened a case against Sarmiento, for which he was detained three months in a provincial prison, but in the end no charges of illicit gain were filed.

Buenos Aires, Recoleta Cemetery, Lucio Vicente López

During these events, López & Sarmiento never saw each other. But afterwards, the only way to clear the air between them was a duel. In the 1890’s, duels were still an occasional event in Argentina but for the most part, they involved firing shots into the air as a way to restore both parties’ honor. Not so for López & Sarmiento. This was to be a duel to the death.

The godparents of both López & Sarmiento—bound to preside over the duel as tradition dictated—tried to dissuade López & Sarmiento. No need to spill blood. But in the end it went ahead as planned. Shots were fired at 12 paces & both missed. Guns were reloaded. In the second round, Sarmiento hit López in the abdomen, causing damage to his gallbladder & liver. López did not survive the night.

Most thought that the death of López was unnecessary & deprived Argentina one of its most respected authors at the age of 44. Old traditions definitely die hard.

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416. carlos pellegrini ◊

Buenos Aires, Recoleta Cemetery, Carlos Pellegrini

As son of highly educated Swiss immigrants, there is little surprise that Carlos Pellegrini grew up with an advantage. Schooled by family members, his talent for language & expression would serve him well in the future.

After attending law school for two years, Pellegrini put his studies on hold to fight in the War of the Triple Alliance in Paraguay, returned to finish his degree & began a life in politics. Pellegrini served in both houses of Congress before becoming Vice-President under Miguel Juárez Celman in 1886.

Buenos Aires, Recoleta Cemetery, Carlos Pellegrini

Argentina faced troubled times during Pellegrini’s lifetime. Buenos Aires began receiving millions of European immigrants. As the population soared, so did national debt. Arrival of a large workforce helped the economy expand at first, but infrastructure demands led to an economic & social crisis. While Pelligrini was in office, foreign debt doubled, salaries dropped, unemployment grew & strikes were commonplace. The fact that President Juárez Celman continued the upper class tradition of electoral fraud made matters even worse.

The violent 1890 Revolution removed Juárez Celman from power, & Pellegrini became President. Although in office for only two years, conditions improved so much that Argentines attributed him with navigating the country through the storm.

Carlos Pellegrini, Recoleta Cemetery

Further contributions by Pelligrini include founding the Jockey Club, an elite social organization for horseracing fans which became a symbol of the oligarchy’s hold on the country. As its first President, references can be found everywhere on the vault. A bronze relief at eye level depicts the Jockey Club façade on Florida Street before it was burned to the ground in 1953 by Perón supporters. No doubt this hatred prevented Pellegrini’s tomb from being declared a National Historic Monument in 1946… that would have to wait until 1964:

Buenos Aires, Recoleta Cemetery, Carlos Pellegrini, Jockey Club

Buenos Aires, Recoleta Cemetery, Carlos Pellegrini, Jockey Club

Buenos Aires, Recoleta Cemetery, Carlos Pellegrini, Jockey Club

Buenos Aires, Recoleta Cemetery, Carlos Pellegrini, Jockey Club

Pellegrini also established the Banco de la Nación, helping strengthen Argentina’s fiscal policy & consolidate national debt. The main branch on Plaza de Mayo would later be constructed by Alejandro Bustillo:

Banco de la Nación, Plaza de Mayo, Alejandro Bustillo

Although without doubt a defender of the upper class, Pellegrini began to understand the need for incorporating other groups in the political process. In part, it was this realization that drove him away from former ally President Roca… also the fact that Pellegrini fought hard in Congress to get Roca’s foreign debt consolidation loan approved which Roca later withdrew without consulting Pellegrini. Passing away in 1906 at the age of 59, today he is remembered mainly for encouraging industrial progress & electoral reform.

Buenos Aires, Recoleta Cemetery, Carlos Pellegrini

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